How to Choose a Healthy Pure-Bred Puppy

How to Choose a Healthy Pure-Bred Puppy

You made the decision to get a puppy and did your research to find the perfect breed -- the one that will match your family’s temperament, energy level, and personality. But how do you find the best breeder to get a healthy, well-adjusted puppy?

Q: There are ads for puppies in the newspaper, on the Internet, and, of course, there are those adorable puppies in the pet stores. Where’s the best place to buy my purebred puppy?

A: Breeders advertise in a variety of ways, including ads on the Internet, in newspapers, and their own web sites. Those are all good places to start, but they are also places you can run into a lot of trouble if you don’t do your research. You can go to our web site, www.AKC.org, to look for the parent club of our breeds. We list breeder referrals for all these clubs and they can put you in touch with breeders across the country.

Q: I’ve heard dogs in pet stores usually come from puppy mills. What are those and are they bad?

A: Most puppies in pet stores come from licensed commercial breeders. Those breeders that register with the American Kennel Club are inspected by us for care and conditions, record keeping, and other things.

There are more than 30 dog registries today. But the AKC is the only nonprofit registry and the only registry that inspects our breeders and mandates that the puppies be raised in humane conditions.

The term puppy mill really describes a kennel with filthy conditions, usually where there are too many dogs to care for properly. Many times these places are unlicensed because they sell directly to the public via the Internet. These are not your well inspected, licensed facilities. We have inspected some puppy mills and some were suspended by us.

Q: Do purebred dogs have a lot of health problems? Where can I find out about the health problems of the breeds I’m interested in?

A: The majority of purebred dogs are happy, healthy pets. We have a web site,www.akcdoghealth.com, which is a great resource for potential dog owners. It highlights what breeders are doing to avoid genetic diseases and whether they are conducting proper health screenings. You need to ask for certificates that show that the breeder has done the proper health screenings on the sire and the dam before the breeding took place.

A balanced breeding program includes a whole list of what should be done ahead of time, such as genetic testing, pedigree research, confirmation, and temperament analysis of the sire and dam.

Q: Will someone who breeds dogs for show sell me a puppy even if I don’t want to show it?

A: Absolutely. The majority of puppies in a show litter actually go to pet homes. The breeder selects the best one or two out of a litter to keep for their line and sells the rest.

Q: What questions should I ask to determine if someone is a good breeder?

A: The first question should be, “Can I come visit your home or your kennel facility?” Responsible breeders are very proud of their kennel and their dogs.

Ask if they register with the American Kennel Club. Ask if they have the health certificates for testing prior to breeding. Then, I expect the breeder to ask the buyer a lot of questions about how they plan to care for the new puppy.

Q: Is it a good idea to meet both parents of the puppy I want?

A: It’s good to meet both parents, if possible. But the majority of breeders have only the mothers at their homes. Usually the stud dogs live somewhere else. But visiting the mother and other relatives that might be in the breeder’s home will give you a good idea of the size and the temperament of the line.

You can also ask for contact information for the stud dog. But in today’s world, you may live in New York, but the stud dog’s frozen semen was shipped from California.

y want to keep those a little longer because they’re fragile when they’re young. So a 12-week-old Yorkshire terrier puppy is very acceptable, where a hardier breed, like a Labrador retriever, is ready to go at 8 weeks.

You also need to check with your state, because some states have a minimum age for selling puppies.

Q: How important is it for puppies to be raised around people?

A: Socialization is paramount with any dog, especially in that 8- to 16-week time frame and after proper immunization, You need to get the dog out to see as many people as possible and expose it to as many situations as possible.

Q: I’ve found a litter of puppies I like. What signs should I look for to be sure they are healthy?

A: You want to look at the surroundings. Make sure it’s a nice, clean, well-run home or facility. The puppies should have bright eyes. They should be very curious. They should run right up to you. You shouldn’t see a nasal discharge or runny eyes. If you see them poop, they should have a firm stool and no diarrhea. You don’t want a lethargic, uninterested puppy.

Q: How do I choose the puppy with the best personality?

A: The responsible breeder will more than likely select the best puppy for you from the litter. They’ve spent 8 to 12 weeks with the puppies and they know the personalities of each puppy. They know which ones are bold and outgoing and which are the shy ones. And the breeder knows the bold, outgoing puppy will do much better with that active family with three kids versus the shy puppy, which needs to go with the single owner who can spend more time with it so that puppy won’t feel overwhelmed.

Q: Will most breeders give me a health guarantee and agree to take the dog back if I can’t keep it?

A: Absolutely. What sets the responsible breeder apart from everyone else is they will agree to take the dog back for the life of the dog, no matter the age of the dog, no matter the circumstance the owner has found themselves in. The breeder has created the puppy and the breeder is responsible for the dog for the life of the dog.

With health guarantees, each breeder has his own health guarantee, whether it’s to replace the puppy or buy the puppy back or cover vet expenses for certain conditions. All that should be spelled out in the sales contract, which is between you and the breeder. All those expectations and responsibilities will be stated in writing and signed by both parties ahead of time. Some states also have so-called "lemon laws" that give buyers some protection, so check with state officials before buying your puppy to see if your state has laws governing the sale of puppies.

How to feed your adult dog

Feeding Your Adult Dog FAQ

Selecting an adult dog food that will keep your pet healthy and energetic starts with knowing your dog’s eating habits and lifestyle. Does your dog weigh just the right amount and go for long walks daily? Or is it a lap dog that loves nothing more than to snooze the day away? The answers to questions like these will help guide you in choosing the best food.

But there are other things to keep in mind as well. To help you know how to choose the best dog food for your adult dog,

What do I need to keep in mind when feeding an adult dog?

The most important thing to keep in mind when feeding an adult dog is to make sure your dog eats a complete and balanced diet. Start by checking package labels for something called a statement of nutritional adequacy. It should say that the food meets nutrient profiles established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) or that it has passed feeding trials designed to AAFCO standards.

The statement also should say that the food is appropriate for adult maintenance or for all life stages. If your dog is overweight or inactive, stick with one labeled for adult maintenance. Food that’s appropriate for all life stages contains extra nutrients needed for growth.

Homemade diets can provide complete nutrition, but making sure your pet gets the right mix of protein, fats, minerals, and vitamins can be difficult. Lisa M. Freeman, DVM, PhD, is a professor of nutrition at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. She tells WebMD that if you are going to prepare a homemade diet, you should consult a nutritionist certified by the American College of Veterinary Nutrition. The nutritionist can help you design a healthy diet for your dog.

What do I need to keep in mind when feeding an adult dog?

The most important thing to keep in mind when feeding an adult dog is to make sure your dog eats a complete and balanced diet. Start by checking package labels for something called a statement of nutritional adequacy. It should say that the food meets nutrient profiles established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) or that it has passed feeding trials designed to AAFCO standards.

The statement also should say that the food is appropriate for adult maintenance or for all life stages. If your dog is overweight or inactive, stick with one labeled for adult maintenance. Food that’s appropriate for all life stages contains extra nutrients needed for growth.

Homemade diets can provide complete nutrition, but making sure your pet gets the right mix of protein, fats, minerals, and vitamins can be difficult. Lisa M. Freeman, DVM, PhD, is a professor of nutrition at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. She tells WebMD that if you are going to prepare a homemade diet, you should consult a nutritionist certified by the American College of Veterinary Nutrition. The nutritionist can help you design a healthy diet for your dog.

When is a dog considered an adult?

When a dog reaches 90% of its expected adult weight, it’s considered an adult for feeding purposes, according to The Merck Veterinary Manual. An adult dog diet, or maintenance diet, contains nutrients suited for animals that have passed their growth stage. Most of a puppy’s growth occurs by 6 or 7 months of age, but large and giant breeds can continue to grow for 12 months or beyond.

How can I tell if a food is right for my pet?

Watch the condition of its body and coat. If your dog appears to be thriving on the food and has a glossy coat, lots of energy, and a fit appearance, the food agrees with him.

Sometimes, the way a food is processed or the ingredients it contains may prevent your dog from absorbing all the needed nutrients. If your pet has a dull coat and lacks energy, try another kind of food. Also, check in the backyard for other signs of trouble: Lots of feces may indicate a problem with digestibility, says Joseph Wakshlag, assistant professor of clinical nutrition at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

It’s rare for a dog to be malnourished because of a badly formulated diet, says C.A. Tony Buffington, DVM, PhD. Buffington is professor of veterinary clinical sciences at The Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital. He advises owners to focus on providing the right amount of food and making sure dogs are active and engaged. About one out of every four dogs is overweight.

How much food should my adult dog eat each day?

That depends on the size of the dog, its age, and how much exercise it gets. Use feeding charts on pet food labels as a guide. Start by checking the amount recommended for your pet’s weight range. If your dog weighs on the lower end of the range, feed the smaller recommended amount. Dogs on the heavier end of the scale may need more food.

Assess your pet’s activity level. Lap dogs who get little exercise may need 10% less than what’s recommended on the package label. An active dog that exercises outdoors may need 20% to 40% more. Working dogs -- those that regularly receive high-intensity exercise, such as a sled dog or police dog -- may need a food designed for working or performance dogs. These foods have a higher fat content to provide extra calories.

Next, you may need to make adjustments based on your pet’s body condition. The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine web site has a body condition scoring chart that shows and describes various body conditions, ranging from emaciated to obese. Your dog’s vet can help you understand how your dog’s body condition affects the amount of food she needs.

Serious illness, pregnancy, or nursing can increase a dog’s energy needs. Ask your vet about adjusting the type or quantity of food.

What are some guidelines for checking whether my dog is too lean, just right, or overweight?

Body condition ranges from emaciated to obese.

An adult dog is emaciated if its ribs, vertebrae, and pelvic bones are easily visible from a distance. Chronically underfed dogs or dogs fed unbalanced diets may develop osteoporosis and are more susceptible to parasites and bacterial infections. They also may lack the energy for working or for nursing puppies.

An adult dog is considered in moderate condition if you can feel its ribs easily and see its waist when looking down at its back. You should also be able to see an abdominal tuck when looking from the side.

A dog is overweight if it’s difficult to feel its ribs or see its waist or abdominal tuck. It will have visible fat deposits on its back and the base of its tail. Fat dogs are more likely to develop diabetes and osteoarthritis.

What should I do if my dog is overweight?

Give less food or switch to a low-calorie dog food. Cut out any table scraps and high-calorie treats, such as dog biscuits. Look for high-fiber, low-calorie treats instead. Make sure your dog isn’t eating food intended for other pets in the house. Your veterinarian can help you calculate the exact amount of food to give your dog when starting a weight loss plan. It’s important to not give too much food or your dog won’t lose weight. But it is equally important to give enough, or your dog can lose weight too quickly and become sick.

How often should my adult dog eat?

Most pet owners prefer feeding an adult dog twice a day, although a dog can eat just once daily. Giving two meals a day may make it easier for the dog to digest the food and helps control hunger.

How much protein and fat does my dog need?

An adult dog needs at least 10% of its daily calories from protein and a minimum of 5.5% from fats. An adult dog’s diet can contain up to 50% carbohydrates, including 2.5% to 4.5% percent fiber.

Are treats OK for dogs, and if so, what are healthy options?

Some 40% of dog owners give treats and snacks. Dog treats don’t have to follow AAFCO standards for a complete and balanced diet, so veterinarians say it’s best to limit them. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals recommends that no more than 5% of a dog’s calories should come from treats. Wakshlag says, though, that up to 20% is OK.

If you’re going to feed treats, look for ones that are lower in calories or low-fat, high-fiber to help guard against weight gain. Small pieces of raw vegetables also make good treats. Try green beans, bell peppers, or thin pieces of carrot.

Is table food appropriate for dogs?

An occasional nibble is OK. But, giving big chunks of steak fat, poultry skin, and other greasy leftovers isn’t a good idea, Wakshlag tells WebMD. A sudden change in diet, especially one involving a large amount of fat, could cause pancreatitis. If your dog is overweight, stay away from table scraps. Also, if you don’t want your dog hanging around the table at mealtimes, don't feed it scraps.

What do I need to know about dry, canned, and semi-moist dog foods?

Deciding which food is best for your dog depends on your pet and your preferences. Dry dog food provides more nutrients per bite than other types of food because it contains less moisture. That means you won’t have to feed as much to satisfy a dog’s nutritional needs, making it the most practical choice for a large dog.

Dry dog food also costs less per serving and can be left in a pet’s feeding dish all day, unlike canned. Dogs with dental problems may benefit from specially formulated dry food made for dental health, which can help decrease periodontal disease by massaging the teeth and gums.

Canned food contains 68% to 78% water. Because of the high moisture content, such foods usually contain more meat, seafood, or poultry than dry foods. They also may contain textured proteins from such grains as wheat and soy.

Dogs with urinary tract problems may do better on canned food because of the higher moisture content. And if your dog likes to eat a lot but is overweight, canned food will help fill him up with fewer calories. However, canned food will become stale quickly if left uneaten.

Semi-moist foods contain 25% to 40% water. To help the food stay soft and preserve shelf life, manufacturers add substances that preserve moisture such as sugar, propylene, glycol, and salts.

How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

Teaching Dogs Not to Pull on Leash

Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on leash. They’re not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull ahead or lag behind. Teaching leash manners can be challenging because dogs move faster than us and are excited about exploring outdoors. Leashes constrain their natural behaviors and movements. Some dogs are determined to run around as fast as they possibly can. Other dogs want to stop, sniff and urinate on anything and everything in their paths. To teach your dog to walk without pulling, it’s critical that you never allow him to pull. If you’re inconsistent, your dog will continue to try pulling because sometimes it pays off.

How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

You’ve probably seen dogs at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have received extensive training in precision heeling. It’s impressive but demanding work. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for long periods of time, like for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even dogs trained to heel need to learn to walk on leash without pulling when they’re not formally heeling.

You can use various methods to teach dogs to walk without pulling on leash. No single method works for all dogs. Here are some overall guidelines before we look at several methods:

Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, consider all walks training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short and fun for your dog.

Since loose-leash training sessions will be too short and slow to provide adequate exercise, find other ways to exercise your dog until he’s mastered loose-leash walking. In fact, you’ll succeed more quickly if you find a way to tire your dog out before taking him on a training walk. Dogs pull, in part, because they’re full of excess energy. So unless you can expend that energy, your dog will find it hard to control himself. Before you train, play fetch in a hallway or your backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive your dog to the park so that he can play with his buddies.

Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that your dog doesn’t get at other times. Soft treats are best so your dog can eat them quickly and continue training. Most dogs love wieners, cheese, cooked chicken or ham, small jerky treats or freeze-dried liver. Chop all treats into small peanut-sized cubes.

Walk at a quick pace. If your dog trots or runs, she’ll have fewer opportunities to catch a whiff of something enticing, and she’ll be less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. Additionally, you are far more interesting to your dog when you move quickly.

If you expect your dog to control herself while walking on leash, you must also expect her to control herself before you go for a walk. If she gets wildly excited as you prepare for a walk, you need to focus on that first. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog races around, barks, whines, spins or jumps up, just stand completely still. Do and say absolutely nothing until your dog calms down a bit. As soon as she has all four paws on the floor, slowly reach toward her to clip on the leash. If she starts to bounce around or jump up on you, quickly bring your hands (and the leash) back toward your body. Wait until your dog has all four paws on the floor again. Then slowly reach toward her again to attach her leash. Repeat this sequence until your dog can stand in front of you, without jumping up or running around, while you clip on her leash. This may seem like a tedious exercise at first, but if you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Eventually, your dog will learn to stand still while you attach her leash.

Option One: Red Light, Green Light

(This method requires that your dog already have a reliable Sit and Come in distracting places.) Walk in your intended direction. The instant your dog reaches the end of his leash and pulls, red light!—stop dead in your tracks and wait. When he stops pulling and puts slack in the leash (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing and this makes the leash a little slack), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat and resume walking (green light). If your dog looks up at you in anticipation of more tasty treats, quickly say “Yes,” and give him one while you keep walking. If he pulls again, repeat the red-light step above. As you’re walking, reward your dog frequently for staying next to you or slightly ahead and for looking up at you. If you do this consistently, he’ll learn that 1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and gets to keep moving, and 2) if he pulls on the leash, the fun stops because he doesn’t get to keep walking and he has to come back to you and sit. If your dog pulls toward an object to sniff or eliminate, carry out the red light, but when he comes back and sits by you, don’t reward him with a treat. Instead, make the object he wanted to sniff the reward. Say “Yes,” and release him to go to the object. (Make sure you go with him toward the object so that he doesn’t have to pull again to reach it.) After a few days or weeks, you’ll find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for walking with slack in the leash or he’ll start pulling again.

Option Two: Lure and Reward

Start with your dog standing at your left side. With several treats enclosed in your left hand, hold your left hand right in front of your dog’s nose (within 1 inch of it). Say “Let’s walk,” and walk in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a small treat into your dog’s mouth and praise her for walking along at your pace. You’ll need to frequently reload your hand with treats from your left pocket or from a treat pouch attached to your waist. If she pulls ahead or to the side, immediately stop. Get your dog’s attention by calling her name again. Ask her to sit, and praise her when she does. Then put the treat-loaded hand back in front of her nose and start walking again. Go a little bit farther every day that you practice. After at least a week of daily practice with lured walking, stop luring her along with your treat-loaded hand, and instead just carry your empty left hand in a natural position at your waist with elbow bent. Say “Let’s walk,” and reward her, about every other step you take, with a treat that you get from your left pocket or waist treat pouch. When she can walk along without pulling for several minutes, begin gradually increasing—over many daily training sessions—the number of steps you go in between treats so that your dog is walking longer distances between rewards. Reward her every other step at first, then every 5 steps, then every 10, and so on. Eventually, you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at your side, periodically (every minute or so) reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward your dog.

Option Three: About-Face

(Use only if your dog is not wearing a choke, pinch or prong collar, or any head halter, such as Halti®, Gentle Leader®, etc.)

Please Note:Options Three and Four use punishment. Punishment should decrease behavior quickly. If it doesn’t result in a noticeable decrease in pulling after several training sessions of consistent use, then it should be stopped. Ineffective punishment repeated over and over easily escalates and can become abusive. Stop both these methods if your dog yelps in pain, becomes reluctant to walk with you, becomes aggressive, or shows fearful body language like cringing, cowering, trembling, excessive panting, tail tucking, etc.

For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient for them to understand that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls, it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a verbal warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat (but keep moving). If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly, letting the leash check your dog. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash and he gets farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.

Be advised that if your dog is running at full speed toward the end of the leash, you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow the leash to check him without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.

Option Four: Collar Correction

(Use only if your dog is not wearing a choke, pinch or prong collar, or any head halter, such as Halti®, Gentle Leader®, etc. )

Some dogs may respond to a jerk on the collar when they pull. Walk holding the end of the leash near your left side, with your elbow bent. Don’t let your dog pull your arm straight out in front of you because then you won’t have the slack you need for the collar correction. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat (keep moving). If he does not slow down and gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, jerk sharply on the leash backward and upward. To do this, you’ll need to reach your arm forward a few inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows down. How much pressure you exert when you apply the jerk depends on the dog. If your dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and tenacious, you may need stronger force. Be sure to quickly reward with treats and praise any time your dog isn’t pulling and walks with you with the leash slack.

Be advised that if you jerk too hard on your dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to his neck. The dog’s trachea is susceptible to bruising and permanent damage, so be extremely cautious using this approach. If this method is effective for your dog, it will decrease or eliminate pulling quickly, within a couple of days. If it does not, try another method or change equipment. Do not keep doing collar corrections or let them become an ineffective habit that is painful and unpleasant for your dog.

Choosing the Right Walking Equipment

While you’re teaching your dog not to pull, you should use a four-foot or six-foot leash. Use whichever width and material that feel comfortable to you. Extendable leashes and leashes longer than six feet are great for exercising dogs, but they don’t work well if you’re trying to teach your dog not to pull on leash.

Suitable Choices

• Regular buckle or snap collar
• Martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar or greyhound collar)
• Head halter/head collar (such as the Halti®, the Gentle Leader® and the Snoot Loop®) Please notethat these are only suitable for Options One and Two. Serious injury could result if they are used with punishment methods using leash jerking.
• No-pull harness (such as the SENSE-ation®, the Easy Walk® or the LUPI®)

Head halters and no-pull harnesses can decrease pulling enough for you without any additional training. They are effective tools, making walks more pleasant for you and your dog, so some people decide not to train at all. Just keep in mind that if you choose to use them without training, they won’t have any effect on pulling when your dog is not wearing the equipment. Dogs learn very specifically. If they learn not to pull while wearing a head halter, they won’t automatically know not to pull when they’re wearing something else, like a flat collar.

Unsuitable Choices

• Regular body harness (Actually encourages pulling)
• Fabric or metal choke/check collar (May be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer)
• A pinch/prong collar (May be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer)

Dogs Who Resist Walking on Leash

Some dogs seem reluctant to walk on leash. Instead of pulling, they freeze or turn around and pull back toward home. Often these dogs are fearful, and they need help feeling comfortable when walking on leash.

• Try leading your dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his nose. If he isn’t too afraid, he’ll follow the treats and gradually become more comfortable walking with you.
• When your dog freezes, you can also try stopping a few feet in front of your dog and waiting. If he shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach toward him to deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again wait for your dog to voluntarily move toward you. Praise and reward him only for forward movement.
• A third technique is appropriate only for small- to medium-sized dogs who walk for stretches at a time but then balk for no apparent reason. Have your dog wear a regular body harness. When he stops walking, pick him up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet along. This may “jump start” your dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and treat when the dog begins to move again on his own. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him along with treats so that he never stops.It will help to walk your dog in less frightening environments at first. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet residential street or a path through the park. Gradually progress to busier areas as your dog develops confidence in quieter places.
  Some dogs respond well if you ask them to do something else when they stop forward movement. Ask your dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw or perform any other convenient behavior that he knows well and enjoys. This may help your dog forget why he was nervous and begin walking again. Of course, you should praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.
  Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hanging out with your dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats for any signs of relaxing in the situation, such as being calmer and able to pay attention to you and do easy behaviors you ask him to do (like sit) for tasty rewards.

Correcting Bad Behavior in Birds

Correcting Bad Behavior in Birds
When asked why she believes that birds are descended from dinosaurs, an acquaintance of mine who owns a Scarlet Macaw will readily reply: "Would you like to see the scar on my arm?"

Beliefs about the origins of birds aside, most can agree that some parts of a bird's anatom can deliver quite painful attacks if our pets become angry with us. Indeed, the instincts and inherently wild nature of our avian companions can bring forth many behaviors that are undesirable in the home. Dealing with these issues can be especially trying for bird owners, given that their feathered friends are such highly sociable and emotionally sensitive creatures. Read on for tips that will help you gently but effectively convey your displeasure toward undesirable behavior in your pet bird. 

The Rules of Avian Discipline

Although at times your pet may behave in a way that annoys you or makes you downright mad, it's important to remember these rules when responding to the transgression: 

• Never hit a bird. Birds are extremely fragile creatures and even the slightest force can cause severe injury or death. Physically abusing a bird can also lead to irreversible psychological problems, and can promote aggression and viciousness. 
  
• Don't hold a grudge. Birds are extremely intelligent, but also very sensitive creatures. When you express displeasure with your bird's behavior, make the lesson short and sweet. Prolonged negative attention can cause undue emotional stress for your pet. 
  
• Never compromise your bird's health. "Punishing" a bird by witholding food or neglecting cage cleaning  is never a fit way to deal with a behavior problem. Such actions are not only cruel, but can cause serious physical and emotional damage for the pet.

Responding to Bad Behavior

In order for your bird to understand you when you catch him acting up, it's necessary that you remember the correct way to respond. While a normal "human" response to an unpleasant discovery would be to loudly declare your grievance, a bird can interpret this reaction and body language as excitement -- meaning that he may actually think you are praising the behavior. Conclusively, dealing with a bird's behavior problem can be just as much about training yourself as it is about training your pet. 

In order to respond properly to undesirable behavior, it's helpful to keep the following steps in mind. With consistency and patience, you may find 

Different Kinds of Large Birds

Birds of all types and sizes are certainly captivating and fascinating creatures, but some of the most impressive of all are the large birds, and in particular, the large parrot species. These birds know no ends to their talents -- many of them can learn to talk, perform tricks, and complete a variety of tasks to delight their owners, enriching the bonds that they share with them. Most of all, these birds have endlessly charming personalities, and many would argue that they are some of the most affectionate pets in the animal kingdom. Read on to learn more about some of the different types of large birds that are commonly kept in captivity, and discover what it's like to share a home with these magnificent creatures.

• Cockatoos

Originating in Australia, there are as many types of Cockatoos as there are colors of the rainbow -- but one thing that they all have in common is that they make incredible affectionate and loving pets for the right people. Caring for a Cockatoo can be a tough job. They require many hours of direct interaction each day and thrive on their owners' companionship. Anyone who adopts a Cockatoo must make sure that they have plenty of free time to spend with their birds, otherwise a Cockatoo will not be very happy in captivity. For those who are up to the task, these birds can provide a wealth of love and companionship.

• Eclectus Parrots

Another favorite type of large bird are the Eclectus Parrots, also hailing from "Down Under." These birds are unique in that they are known as a dimorphic species, which means that the males can be discerned from the females just by looking at the colors of their feathers. The male Eclectus is a bright green color, with red and blue accents on the undersides of his wings. The females are a brilliant red color, with vivid purple bellies. Both make excellent pets, and have charming and affectionate personalities when properly socialized.

• African Grey Parrots

As their name makes evident, the beautiful African Grey Parrots are originally from Africa, and are widely known as some of the most intelligent bird species on the planet. Many studies have been done on these birds, and the results have been astounding -- some have even found that these birds have the intellect and emotional capacities of human toddlers, which is pretty incredible! Of course, this means that African Greys need special owners that have a deep commitment to caring for them. They need lots of human interaction, mental stimulation, and socialization in order to thrive as pets, so it's important that anyone who adopts one to make sure that they can meet their needs.

• Amazon Parrots

The strikingly beautiful Amazon Parrots come from South America, where they make their homes in warm and humid climates. Even so, they have grown to become popular pets all around the world. These birds are very clever and many become proficient talkers, building impressive vocabularies and speaking with great clarity. They are affectionate with their owners and form strong bonds with their human caretakers. Amazon parrots have been known to live for a very long time in captivity, even in excess of 60 years. For this reason and more, it's very important that those who are interested in keeping one as a pet has the desire and the means to commit to providing excellent care for them.

• Macaws

The bold Macaws are some of the most easily recognizable birds on the planet, no doubt due to their popularity in movies and bird shows around the world. It's no wonder that these birds are a favorite of those in the entertainment industry -- they are beautiful, intelligent, and highly trainable, capable of learning to mimic speech as well as perform a variety of tricks and commands. Like other large birds, Macaws make loving pets who bond strongly to their owners and need lots of interaction. Make sure that you are able to provide a Macaw with several hours of social time each day before rushing out to bring one home.

Best Birds for Young People

It's easy for kids to become fascinated with animals, and birds are no exception. Often, I receive letters from parents asking about the best types of birds to get as a pet for their children. My usual response is that they should first make sure that their child can be a good owner for a pet bird! All bird species need special care and attentive owners to make sure that they thrive in their homes as pets. If you feel like your child is responsible enough to keep a pet bird, then you might consider some of the species listed below as a pet for them. Remember that you must always take care to peek in and see how your little one is doing with his or her pet, however. Even the most responsible children can use a helping hand now and then, and you don't want an innocent bird to pay the price for a child's inability to care for it.

Budgies

One of the most popular pet bird species for young and old alike are the charming little Budgies, also known to many as simply "Parakeets." Budgies are pretty little birds that can be found in a variety of color combinations. They are extremely intelligent and can be taught a number of fun tricks, and many learn to speak very well, although they have tiny little voices. On average, a pet Budgie lives for between 5 and 9 years in captivity, although some have been known to live for much longer

Finches

 Cockatiels

Another type of bird that has long been hailed as an excellent choice for children is the beautiful and intelligent Cockatiel. It's rare for one of these birds to talk, but many Cockatiels enjoy mimicking other types of sounds, such as doorbells and telephones. These birds have unique personalities and playful natures, making them a good choice for older children who want a bird that they can really interact with. Cockatiels normally live for between 10 and 20 years in captivity, so make sure that your child is up to the task of being responsible for their bird for quite a long time before bringing a Cockatiel home.

Doves

An often overlooked species that happens to be my personal favorite for quiet, well-behaved children is the lovable Dove . Doves are calm, gentle, reserved birds who do well with people who embody the same traits. Older children in particular might do well caring for a Dove, who can grow fondly accustomed to being gently handled and played with. Some captive pet doves have been known to live for up to 25 years, so keeping one is definitely a commitment, however, they can make lovely pets in the right situation

Conures

For extremely responsible children who are perhaps a little older, a parent might consider adopting one of the many captivating types of Conures as a pet. Conures are medium sized parrots, but many of them possess the same traits as their larger counterparts. They have big personalities, and do best with owners who are committed to providing them with plenty of exercise, playtime, and interaction. If you are interested in getting a Conure for your child, then you might do well to consider the bird more of a family pet, if anything. Be aware that in all likelihood, you will need to assume some of the responsibility of caring for the bird, as such a species could prove too taxing for a young person.