Wednesday, 12 November 2014

caring for guinea pigs

caring for my guinea pigs



Guinea Pigs (also known as cavies) are a species of rodent native to the South American Andes. They are social, inquisitive creatures and make lovely pets. Although they are commonly thought to be easy first pets for children, they require plenty of attention and time and a well-researched approach to care.
The following information is only a basic overview. It does not cover every aspect of guinea pig care and we strongly advise that you seek further information to ensure the health and welfare of the animals in your care.


Basic requirements

1.Companionship

Guinea pigs are a social species and are happiest when kept with other guinea pigs. Make sure that both animals are the same sex to avoid having any unintended litters of baby guinea pigs. Male guinea pigs are more likely to tolerate one another without fighting if they are introduced at a young age.
2.Housing

Although small, guinea pigs require plenty of space to exercise – the more the better. Provide an enclosure as large as possible (minimum dimensions for one guinea pig is about 1m x 0.5m x 0.25m high). Two guinea pigs will require double this space. Make sure that the design of your hutch allows for easy cleaning.
Enclosures should be lined with newspaper and then soft grass hay to provide cushioning and prevent foot injuries. Do not use sawdust or wood shavings as these are more likely to cause respiratory problems. Straw should also be avoided as it does not absorb urine well and the hard stalks can cause injuries.
The bedding should be changed as required (this is typically once a day). It is important to regularly change bedding and floor material and clean out the enclosures to avoid ammonia build-up from urine and also to help reduce attracting flies to the area. Guinea pigs can be susceptible to flystrike (which can be fatal). It is important to fly-proof the enclosure using fly-screen wire or mosquito netting.
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stress (which can be fatal) - always ensure the area they are kept in is well-ventilated, provides adequate shade and does not become hot. Animals in hutches and cages can die from overheating easily.
Provide overturned boxes for ‘hiding’ places (at least one per guinea pig)

3.Diet
Guinea pigs are herbivores. They need to be fed the types of food they have adapted to eat.
  • Offer a constant source of grass and/or grass hay such as Timothy, Oaten, Wheaten, Pasture, Paddock, Meadow or Ryegrass hays. They should not be fed Lucerne (alfalfa) or Clover hays as they are too high in protein and calcium. This is paramount in providing the ‘complete’ diet and encourages ‘chewing’ for long periods of time. This "chewing" helps to wear down their continuously growing teeth and is very important in maintaining dental and gastrointestinal health.
  • Offer fresh leafy green vegetables & herbs. Some examples include vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, celery, endive, carrot tops, brussel sprouts, Bok Choy/other Asian greens, dark leafed lettuce varieties and herbs such as parsley, dandelion, coriander, basil, dill and mint.
  • High quality ‘Guinea Pig’ pellets may be offered in small quantities only, and should not form the main basis of the diet.
  • Guinea pigs require a dietary source of Vitamin C. This is usually supplied sufficiently by the fresh leafy green vegetables however it is safer to supplement this with small quantities of vitamin C rich foods such as citrus or kiwi fruit.
  • The following foods should not be offered to guinea pigs: cereals, grains, nuts, seeds, corn, beans, peas, breads, biscuits, sweets, sugar, breakfast cereals, chocolate, buttercups, garden shrubs, lily of the valley, onion grass, onions, potato tops, raw beans; beetroot, spinach and rhubarb leaves; and any bulk plants (may cause digestive problems).
  • Any dietary changes should be made gradually over a few weeks.
  • Provide fresh water at all times. Enclosures must be fitted with a water bottle (and small water bowl as well).


4.Grooming


Daily grooming is essential for long-haired guinea pigs to help keep their coat in good condition. Using a suitable brush, gently remove dead hairs, tangles and pieces of twigs, dry leaves or burrs. During grooming take the opportunity to check your guinea pig's health and to ensure that it is free from external parasites. Also check the length of your guinea pigs’ toenails and, if found to be overlong, have them clipped by a veterinarian or someone experienced in clipping. Daily handling and grooming is important in building your guinea pigs’ confidence and for developing friendly and social guinea pigs.



4.Health Problems

Most of the common health problems seen in pet guinea pigs are preventable by good husbandry and feeding practices. Guinea pigs may be susceptible to respiratory infections, usually due to poor housing conditions. Inadequate cleaning can also lead to skin ailments. Guinea pigs, like most pets, are also susceptible to fleas. Ask your vet about an appropriate flea treatment if required. Guinea pigs may also suffer from mite infestation - which cause intense itchiness, hair loss and discomfort but fortunately mites are easily treatable by your vet.


Sunday, 9 November 2014

How to Care for Your Pet Bird

How to Care for Your Pet Bird

Tips, resources for feeding, housing, enrichment, and more for parrots and other birds kept as pets


Parrots and other birds kept as pets (like canaries and finches) have very specialized needs. Studying up on those needs will help ensure you're providing the best life possible for your feathered friend.

We've pulled together general guidelines, but you'll be most successful if you grab a book or two on the subject (suggestions below) and always, always consult a board-certified avian veterinarian (see below for more on that, too), especially if you're new to birds.
Provide as much out-of-cage time as possible—this will mean bird-proofing your house »
Birds don't want to live in cages any more than we do. If you have the space, consider dedicating a room in your house as your bird's room so she has to spend as little time in her cage as possible. If a bird room isn't in your near future, commit to having the bird out of her cage, in a safe, always supervised space, whenever possible when you're at home. This is important for enrichment and the opportunity to fly.

Birds will chew anything in sight: wires, cords, the wall (most paint is hazardous), furniture, etc. To keep your bird safe, remove or adequately cover any of these materials, and ensure that all windows and doors are closed. Keep your bird away from other pets in your home if you're unsure of their dynamic (cats and dogs are obvious ones). And familiarize yourself with the list of the most hazardous household materials (air fresheners, scented candles, and Teflon cookware are the biggies).

Let your bird fly—don't clip her wings
Everything about a bird's physiology is designed for flight. They have wings, hollow bones, and specialized respiratory systems that allows them to use air differently than we do. Because they're prey species, they need flight as a means to feel safe and normal.


Find a board-certified avian veterinarian »
See her or him at least once a year; call whenever something seems off.

Most dog and cat veterinarians don't treat birds. Among those who treat/see birds, very few are board-certified in avian medicine. But finding one who is can make all the difference in supporting a long, healthy life for your bird. A board-certified avian vet. knows parrots' nutritional and behavioral needs better than most, and he or she will be your partner in providing optimal care for your pet.

Plus, birds are flock animals, so they mask their symptoms when they're sick. It's critical to know your bird so well that you can detect the most minor of shifts in his behavior, then immediately contact the vet. Often this is the only opportunity you'll get to save his life. The basic rule with birds is that you can never be too cautious. When in doubt, call the vet. You can find an avian vet at the Association of Avian Veterinarians' website.

Consider adopting more than one bird »
Parrots and other birds kept as pets are flock animals. At a minimum they need a close relationship with you, but they'll thrive if they have a good relationship with another bird with whom they live (to understand this, imagine living your life without seeing another human). Talk to your local avian rescue organization to learn about other birds who might get along with yours.

Feed your bird well
Did you know that most parrots and birds kept as pets should eat very little seed? It's fattening and not health-supporting in high quantities. Most birds should be on a diet of a high-quality, organic pellet and a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains. Talk to your avian veterinarian about diet, check out the diet resources from Phoenix Landing (for instance, the "Nourish to Flourish" book and "Feeding our Parrots Well" DVD). The two most reputable, commercial bird food companies are Harrison's Bird Foods and Roudybush.

Provide the biggest cage you can afford and design it for fun, safety, comfort »
A cage can never be too big for an animal who has wings. As your bird will likely spend a good amount of her time in her cage, you'll want to design it for comfort (vary the perch heights, make sure food and water access is easy, etc.) and stimulation (great toys!). Check out the Bird-Safe Store for cages, toys, perches, and more.




Friday, 7 November 2014

Tips to Create Your Cat's Ideal Home Environment1

5 Tips to Create Your Cat's Ideal Home Environment






Imagine you're on assignment to learn about indoor cats, with pop culture as your resource. What would you find? Well, Garfield spits out sarcastic comments while lounging around the living room eating lasagna; meanwhile, Tom chases the mouse Jerry around the house until Tom invariably crashes into a mouse hole or a mallet falls on his head.
We all know those scenarios are not real, but it is true that indoor cats often lead pampered, easy lifestyles -- toys, litter boxes, regular food and water and loving humans. Spoiled, maybe, but easy? Not always. You'd think a cozy home and regular meals indoors would be a cat's dream, but if you consider the fact that most cats were outdoor animals up until around the 1970s, the house cat is still a fairly new concept.
By nature, cats are predators and explorers, they love high places, climbing and balancing. They are self-reliant but can be social as well. We bring them in our home to give them a better life but often, we repress some of these natural instincts -- keeping them indoors full-time rather than allowing them to roam the yard, hunting for small prey; ignoring them as they lie on the living room rug, instead of engaging them in play. According to Tony Buffington, Doctor of Veterinary Medicine and professor at Ohio State University, this can make for unhappy and unhealthy cats. But, with a little knowledge, you can make your indoor environment as healthy and natural for a cat as the great outdoors.






Get Creative with Food and Water

Unlike humans, cats should be encouraged to play with their food. A great way to do this is to take yogurt containers (the kind with a reusable lid) and cut out small holes. Put pellets of dry food in the covered container and let the cat play with it, rattling and batting it until he's finally able to make the food drop out.
Back in the day, cats foraged for food anywhere from five to six hours a day. A cat might have eaten 10 mice a day, so he worked hard to capture those meals. Hunting kept the cat active and his predatory instincts sharp. Portion sizes stayed small and the cat ate several times a day.
Contrast this with the bowl of food you put out for your cat. If you eliminate hunting, you also eliminate exercise, causing obesity and poor health. After all, if you could eat whenever you wanted with minimal activity, wouldn't you be overweight? That's one reason obesity levels among people are so high!
A cat's need for water is also complex. By nature, it's an either-or situation; either the cat looks for food or for water but not both. After all, if you're trapping a mouse, can you stop for a drink? A full bowl of water next to your cat's food can lead to dehydration because the cat might continually choose food over water.
So, get creative. Instead of overflowing bowls of water and food side by side, set smaller bowls throughout the house, in high and low places to encourage exploration and climbing. A good rule of thumb? For each cat, place one food bowl and one water bowl in separate areas, plus a few extras to encourage exploration and roaming. Make food contraptions using boxes, small containers or paper bags so the cat has to work or play to get the food. These simple steps encourage exercise, agility and hunting, challenges that a cat loves and needs.

Give Them Something to Scratch

When your favorite feline scratches your antique dresser, it's not because he hates you. Cats scratch because it's an instinct, satisfying several needs:
- Scratching helps a cat sharpen claws and shed the outside layer of claw. This helps a cat's defensive abilities, even if it's an indoor cat, fighting no more than his shadow. It also is good for his claws.
- By scratching, a cat marks his territory. It's not just the actual mark; the bottom of a cat's foot has scent glands allowing the cat to mark areas by smell as well.
- Scratching is also stretching, helping the cat to flex his back and leg muscles. Like humans, cats often sit or lie for long periods of time, so they need to stretch.
Now that you know why cats scratch, your job is to make it easy for them. Without scratching posts, the cat will choose his own areas, creating many headaches for the humans in the household. For this reason, you want to place posts wherever the cat goes -- sleeping areas, his route to food, and in doorways. Ideally, scratching posts should be tall to allow a cat to reach up and stretch. Of course, some cats like horizontal posts, so it's good if you can have more than one post. And don't despair if you live in a smaller home; attach the post to the wall and your cat will have a place to scratch, and also get some climbing or leaping exercise in the process.

Give Them "Me" Time

On any given day, I wish I could retreat for a bit of "me" time, be it curled up with a book, taking a little nap, or just zoning out from the stress of the day. Well, I should have been a cat. Unlike dogs who can spend most of their day playing or basking in their human's gaze, cats need to get away -- from their humans, noise and other cats and household pets. A cat refuge is anywhere the cat is comfortable or surrounded by "his" things, food or water, a litter box, toys, a scratching post or rest area. So, a household rule of thumb -- if the cat retreats, let him.

On that topic, a good refuge for a cat is a high perch or observation area. While curiosity may have never actually killed a cat, it is part of a cat's nature to observe. A high resting spot allows the cat to escape while still keeping a paw on the pulse of the household. Window sills, stairs, even the back of the sofa are great areas for the cat to have private, observation time. If you're in a one-story home, your cat may get more creative and find a spot on tops of cabinets or shelves; you can even purchase a multi-level kitty condo or play structure from a pet store. This will give your cat a play area, scratching post and area of refuge, all in one stop.

Give Them Something to Do

Pets are often like children -- if you don't give them something to do, they will find something on their own, and you may not be pleased with the outcome. Not to say you need to be with your cat 24 hours a day, but they need stimulation to keep them happy and healthy.
Toys are important. Cats like predatory games, so feathers attached to a stick, furry mice or any game where he gets to find, pounce on or retrieve items is usually a big hit. This keeps your cat active and his instincts keen. And while cats will play by themselves, it's great if you can be involved in playtime with kitty; most cats do enjoy time with their humans, and playtime is one of the most enjoyable It's a good idea to put a majority of the toys away after play so that they'll remain interesting to your cat.
Despite their reputation as being somewhat aloof, cats are social creatures when they want to be. Many houses have more than one cat so the felines have company while humans are out. Cats may also be a faithful friend to the family dog, though somewhat of a tease.
Hanging out with the humans is another important social scenario, be it cuddling, being petted or groomed. However, don't forget the "me time" factor; cats like things on their own terms so if a cat doesn't want to be petted, you won't have much luck coercing him.

Give Them Rest

This is where being a cat gets really appealing. Cats typically sleep two-thirds of the day, so even if you are providing stimulation and exciting activities, the time will come when your cat needs to slip away for some shut-eye. Let them, because there's a very good chance that your cat was up at dawn, instinctively awake and moving around during what would be hunting time for an outdoor cat. Additionally, cats tend to be very active at dusk, another typical hunting window.
Cats need multiple resting places throughout the home, so if you're someone who likes to be able to nap on the couch, your easy chair, or in your bedroom, you understand. As a cat owner, make sure that your cat has comfortable areas to sleep. Pet stores boast lovely, expensive cat beds, but often all your cat wants is the arm of the sofa, a pillow or the top of your stairs. As long as it works, let them enjoy it; often spending the money on the fancy cat bed is a waste.
Again, remember to let your cat escape when he needs alone time. However, if your cat sleeps too much, they may be sleeping out of boredom. Ensure they have the social and physical stimulation that they need.
Cats were not always domesticated animals, so when you make one a part of your home, just remember what their inner cat needs.

Thursday, 30 October 2014

Important Cat Health Questions

Important Cat Health Questions


Cats are magnificent creatures. With grace, refinement and a permanent look of haughty disdain on their faces, their charms are impossible to resist. On the other hand, cats are also quite mysterious, which is why taking care of them isn't always easy.
What constitutes "normal" behavior for a cat? How do you know when to take your cat to the veterinarian? How do cats cope with stress in their environment, and what are some of the symptoms of serious illness in a cat? Check out our list of the top 10 cat health questions to learn about the domestic cat's most common quirks and health concerns.

10: Is it normal for cats to mark their territory?

Cats are some of the most territorial creatures on the planet. Every time your cat rubs his cheeks against you, he's marking you with his scent. It's his way of saying "back off -- this one's taken."
When it comes to territory marking in house cats, the biggest problem for owners is urine spraying, that unfortunate tomcat tendency to pee on drapes, furniture and other household items. Spraying is different from the elimination of urine for physiological reasons. When cats spray, it's meant to be a "keep out" sign for other animals.
Spraying is common among felines that live in multi-cat households or those that are experiencing stress. If your cat is spraying, thoroughly clean the marked area with products designed to neutralize odor. You should also do your best to create and maintain a stress-free environment for your feline friend.

More Cats

When cleaning cat spray with household products, avoid using those that are ammonia-based. Ammonia smells like urine and may cause the cat to spray more in order to cover it up.

9: What are the recommended shots for cats?

Vaccines are very important for domestic cats, both indoor and outdoor. But it may not always be clear which vaccines to give your bewhiskered buddy. According to the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, the types of shots your cat needs depend on several factors, including whether he goes outside and his age and overall health.
As a general rule, all cats should be vaccinated for feline distemper, feline herpes virus and rabies. Outdoor cats require vaccines for additional diseases, such as feline immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus, the number one viral killer of cats. Each of these may be given on a particular schedule, depending on the age of your pet. When planning for your veterinary visit, be prepared to discuss your cat's environment, lifestyle and medical history, as these will factor into the decisions about vaccination.

More Cats

Receiving vaccinations may cause your cat to retreat to a favorite hiding spot for a day or two. This is normal. However, if he does not return to his normal behavior within 48 hours, talk to your veterinarian about the problem.

8: What if your cat has a runny nose?

Cats are prone to runny noses for a variety of reasons, including allergies, nasal mites, infections and the common cold, all of which are treatable conditions. For each of these, there would be discharge coming from both of your cat's nostrils.
If your cat has discharge coming from only one nostril, there may be something in the nasal passage that's irritating the lining and causing fluid to run out. For example, grass, dust or pollen may become stuck in your cat's nose. If this is the cause, most often it will work itself out.
According to Washington State University's College of Veterinary Medicine, discharge from one nostril in cats may also indicate a nasal tumor, especially if it is accompanied by blood. If you notice these symptoms, you should see your veterinarian as soon as possible.

More Cats

A cleft palate in kittens that are still nursing can result in milk running through the nose. This condition is often treatable, especially in cases of small clefts.


7: What causes hair loss in cats?

Seasoned cat owners know that a certain amount of hair loss in cats is normal, and they have a house full of hair-covered furniture to prove it. However, excessive or patchy hair loss in cats is not normal, especially when accompanied by inflamed skin.
Hair loss in cats is often caused by excessive scratching due to flea infestation, allergies or other skin irritants. Hyperthyroidism is another cause of hair loss in cats, especially older cats. Once these underlying conditions are treated, the hair loss should stop.
In some cases, hair loss in cats coincides with a change in the animal's environment. Excessive grooming caused by stress can also cause hair to fall out. No matter what the cause, if the problem persists, talk to your veterinarian about the problem.

More Cats

Like fur, a cat's whiskers periodically fall out and grow back. But you should never cut them. Whiskers serve several important functions for cats, including helping them to navigate through their environment.



6: What if your cat vomits a lot?

Seeing your cat vomit can be upsetting. But try not to worry -- vomiting is quite common and usually inconsequential in our feline friends. These naturally inquisitive creatures often consume some pretty unsavory "snacks," and vomiting is nature's way of getting rid of the offending morsels. Vomiting may also be caused by hair balls, which are normal byproducts of grooming.
More serious causes of vomiting include viral infections, intestinal obstructions, kidney disease, diseases of the digestive system and various types of cancer. In most cases, vomiting that lasts less than a few days doesn't need to be treated, though you may want to withhold food for 24 hours. If your cat is vomiting for more than 48 hours, or if the vomit contains blood, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

More Cats

To keep hair balls under control, try brushing your cat on a regular basis. It'll keep the hair balls in check and foster bonding between you and your feline friend.

5: Why would a cat refuse to eat and drink?

Having a pet that refuses food and water can be pretty alarming, and rightfully so, considering that not many creatures last long without these basic staples. But keep in mind that cats are extremely finicky creatures. Changing their food or feeding routines can cause them to refuse food and water for a short time. Cats may also go on brief hunger strikes in response to environmental stressors, such as the presence of guests in your home. If this is the case, don't worry. Your furry friend will be grazing again in no time.
However, there are also many illnesses that can cause an animal to refuse food and water, including dental infections and intestinal disease. If your cat goes more than 48 hours without eating or drinking, contact your veterinarian immediately.

4: What can cause weight loss in a cat?

There is no shortage of portly pets in the world these days, mainly due to the abundance of owners who overfeed and under-exercise their four-legged friends. These animals could use a good weight loss program. However, weight loss in an animal that is not on a diet is generally a cause for concern.
Some of the most common causes of weight loss in cats are intestinal parasites, such as roundworms, hookworms or tapeworms. Fortunately, these are relatively easy to treat -- one or two doses of medication will usually do the trick.
More serious potential causes of weight loss in cats include cancer, hyperthyroidism, kidney disease and dental infections. No matter what the cause, any unexplained weight loss in your cat should be brought to the attention of your veterinarian as soon as possible.

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Intestinal parasites are very common in cats, with infection rates as high as 45 percent, according to the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. The best way to avoid recurring infections is to scoop feces from cat litter boxes daily and regularly clean them with a bleach solution.

3: Should you be worried if your cat has diarrhea?

Despite its inherent unpleasantness, diarrhea serves a critical function in all animals, including cats. It is nature's way of quickly getting rid of anything in the digestive tract that has the potential to do harm. It's normal for cats to have occasional diarrhea, and it's usually a short-lived problem.
Sometimes, however, diarrhea indicates a more serious condition in cats, such as intestinal infections or tumors. If your cat's diarrhea persists for more than 48 hours, contains blood or is accompanied by vomiting or fever, make an appointment to see your veterinarian immediately. You should also see your veterinarian if your cat shows signs of dehydration, which include sunken eyes, lethargy, and a dry mouth and nose.

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A cat that has diarrhea may also refuse to eat or drink during the episode. However, dehydration is a serious concern for cats. If your pet is experiencing diarrhea, encourage him to drink at least small amounts of water.

2: How do you know if your cat is too fat?

To find out if your feline is fit or fat, ask yourself the following questions:
- Is there just a thin layer of fat over the bones of his rib cage and tail?
- Looking from above, does your cat's waistline narrow behind the ribs?
- Looking at your cat from the side, does his abdomen tuck upward just behind the ribs?
If you answered "no" to one or more of these, there's a good chance your cat is fat.
To maintain a healthy weight in your pet, offer him a food that is appropriate for his stage of life and for his particular health concerns. You should also be sure to feed him according to your vet's instructions. Overfeeding is the main cause of feline obesity, which can shorten your cat's lifespan.

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A great way to help your cat shed unwanted pounds is to play with him in the house. But don't worry about buying fancy cat toys -- a crumpled up piece of paper tossed playfully across the room is all your pudgy pet needs to get moving.


1: What if your cat has seizures?

The word seizure refers to a sudden uncontrollable firing of nerves in the brain. In mild cases, a seizure may cause your cat to simply pause for a moment with a far-away look in his eyes. In more severe cases, a seizure can cause a cat to fall to the ground, twitching, convulsing, and urinating or defecating uncontrollably. These episodes may last a minute or more, and are usually followed by a period of disorientation. They are among the most difficult health issues a cat owner can face.
Seizures can be caused by many factors, including infections, hypoglycemia, kidney disease, tumors, exposure to toxins and epilepsy. If your cat is experiencing seizures, it is important to see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Once the vet determines the underlying cause of the seizures, they can often treat them successfully.


Monday, 27 October 2014

Eye Care for Dogs

Eye Care for Dogs



Man’s best friend could use a good eyeballing once in awhile-believe us, your dog won’t take it personally! In fact, giving him regular home eye exams will help keep you alert to any tearing, cloudiness or inflammation that may indicate a health problem. Check out the following ways to help keep your dog’s vision sharp-and that twinkle in his eyes



1. The Initial Gaze

Face your dog in a brightly lit area and look into his eyes. They should be clear and bright, and the area around the eyeball should be white. His pupils should be equal in size and there shouldn’t be tearing, discharge or any crust in the corners of his eyes.

2. A Closer Look

With your thumb, gently roll down your dog’s lower eyelid and look at the lining. It should be pink, not red or white.

3. What to Watch Out For

The following are signs that something may be wrong with one or both of your dog’s eyes:
  • Discharge & crusty gunk
  • Tearing
  • Red or white eyelid linings
  • Tear-stained fur
  • Closed eye(s)
  • Cloudiness or change in eye color
  • Visible third eyelid
  • Unequal pupil sizes


4. A Clean Sweep

A gentle wipe with a damp cotton ball will help to keep your pooch’s eyes gunk-free. Wipe outward from the corner of the eye and be careful not to touch his eyeball-you don’t want to scratch the cornea. If your dog constantly suffers from runny eyes and discharge, please see your veterinarian. Your pet may have an infection.

5. Control the Eye-Fro

Long-haired breeds can get eye damage if their locks aren’t tamed. Using scissors with rounded tips, carefully trim the hair around your dog’s eyes to keep his vision clear and prevent hairs from poking and scratching.

Soaps and topical medications can be major irritants. Make sure to protect your dog’s eyes before bathing him or applying ointments or flea-control formulas.


7. Driving Ms. Fluffy

Many a pooch loves the open road and the wind in her fur, but if debris or an insect touches her eye, she may suffer pain and a long-lasting injury. It’s much safer to drive with the windows only partially down and doggie’s head inside the vehicle. The wind can also dry out your dog’s eyes, possibly causing irritation and infection.

8. It’s in the Genes

Do a little research and find out if your dog’s breed is predisposed toward eye conditions, such as glaucoma or progressive retinal atrophy. Of course, your pet should have his eyes checked on annual vet visits, but knowing about possible inherited problems will help you take important precautions.


9. Eye-Catching Behavior

Watch your pooch’s body language-pawing or rubbing his eye area may alert you to possible problems.

10. Know Thy Eye Disorders

The following eye-related disorders are commonly seen in dogs:
  • Conjunctivitis: One or both of your dog’s eyes will look red and swollen, and there may be discharge.







  • Dry Eye: Diminished tear production can cause corneal inflammation, squinting and discharge.





  • Cherry Eye: An enlarged tear gland forms a cherry-like mass on the dog's eye.




  • Epiphora: An overflow of tears creates stains on the dog’s facial fur.



  • Glaucoma: The cornea becomes cloudy and the eye enlarges due to an increased pressure in the eyeball.


  • Ectropion: A turning outward of the upper eyelid causes the lower lid to droop.




  • Entropion: A rolling in of the eyelid causes discharge and tearing.

  • Cataract: An opacity on the lens of the eye can cause impaired vision and possible blindness.



  • Progressive Retinal Atrophy: Caused by degeneration of retinal tissue-night blindness is often its first sign.