How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

Teaching Dogs Not to Pull on Leash

Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on leash. They’re not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull ahead or lag behind. Teaching leash manners can be challenging because dogs move faster than us and are excited about exploring outdoors. Leashes constrain their natural behaviors and movements. Some dogs are determined to run around as fast as they possibly can. Other dogs want to stop, sniff and urinate on anything and everything in their paths. To teach your dog to walk without pulling, it’s critical that you never allow him to pull. If you’re inconsistent, your dog will continue to try pulling because sometimes it pays off.

How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

You’ve probably seen dogs at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have received extensive training in precision heeling. It’s impressive but demanding work. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for long periods of time, like for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even dogs trained to heel need to learn to walk on leash without pulling when they’re not formally heeling.

You can use various methods to teach dogs to walk without pulling on leash. No single method works for all dogs. Here are some overall guidelines before we look at several methods:

Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, consider all walks training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short and fun for your dog.

Since loose-leash training sessions will be too short and slow to provide adequate exercise, find other ways to exercise your dog until he’s mastered loose-leash walking. In fact, you’ll succeed more quickly if you find a way to tire your dog out before taking him on a training walk. Dogs pull, in part, because they’re full of excess energy. So unless you can expend that energy, your dog will find it hard to control himself. Before you train, play fetch in a hallway or your backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive your dog to the park so that he can play with his buddies.

Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that your dog doesn’t get at other times. Soft treats are best so your dog can eat them quickly and continue training. Most dogs love wieners, cheese, cooked chicken or ham, small jerky treats or freeze-dried liver. Chop all treats into small peanut-sized cubes.

Walk at a quick pace. If your dog trots or runs, she’ll have fewer opportunities to catch a whiff of something enticing, and she’ll be less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. Additionally, you are far more interesting to your dog when you move quickly.

If you expect your dog to control herself while walking on leash, you must also expect her to control herself before you go for a walk. If she gets wildly excited as you prepare for a walk, you need to focus on that first. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog races around, barks, whines, spins or jumps up, just stand completely still. Do and say absolutely nothing until your dog calms down a bit. As soon as she has all four paws on the floor, slowly reach toward her to clip on the leash. If she starts to bounce around or jump up on you, quickly bring your hands (and the leash) back toward your body. Wait until your dog has all four paws on the floor again. Then slowly reach toward her again to attach her leash. Repeat this sequence until your dog can stand in front of you, without jumping up or running around, while you clip on her leash. This may seem like a tedious exercise at first, but if you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Eventually, your dog will learn to stand still while you attach her leash.

Option One: Red Light, Green Light

(This method requires that your dog already have a reliable Sit and Come in distracting places.) Walk in your intended direction. The instant your dog reaches the end of his leash and pulls, red light!—stop dead in your tracks and wait. When he stops pulling and puts slack in the leash (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing and this makes the leash a little slack), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat and resume walking (green light). If your dog looks up at you in anticipation of more tasty treats, quickly say “Yes,” and give him one while you keep walking. If he pulls again, repeat the red-light step above. As you’re walking, reward your dog frequently for staying next to you or slightly ahead and for looking up at you. If you do this consistently, he’ll learn that 1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and gets to keep moving, and 2) if he pulls on the leash, the fun stops because he doesn’t get to keep walking and he has to come back to you and sit. If your dog pulls toward an object to sniff or eliminate, carry out the red light, but when he comes back and sits by you, don’t reward him with a treat. Instead, make the object he wanted to sniff the reward. Say “Yes,” and release him to go to the object. (Make sure you go with him toward the object so that he doesn’t have to pull again to reach it.) After a few days or weeks, you’ll find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for walking with slack in the leash or he’ll start pulling again.

Option Two: Lure and Reward

Start with your dog standing at your left side. With several treats enclosed in your left hand, hold your left hand right in front of your dog’s nose (within 1 inch of it). Say “Let’s walk,” and walk in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a small treat into your dog’s mouth and praise her for walking along at your pace. You’ll need to frequently reload your hand with treats from your left pocket or from a treat pouch attached to your waist. If she pulls ahead or to the side, immediately stop. Get your dog’s attention by calling her name again. Ask her to sit, and praise her when she does. Then put the treat-loaded hand back in front of her nose and start walking again. Go a little bit farther every day that you practice. After at least a week of daily practice with lured walking, stop luring her along with your treat-loaded hand, and instead just carry your empty left hand in a natural position at your waist with elbow bent. Say “Let’s walk,” and reward her, about every other step you take, with a treat that you get from your left pocket or waist treat pouch. When she can walk along without pulling for several minutes, begin gradually increasing—over many daily training sessions—the number of steps you go in between treats so that your dog is walking longer distances between rewards. Reward her every other step at first, then every 5 steps, then every 10, and so on. Eventually, you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at your side, periodically (every minute or so) reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward your dog.

Option Three: About-Face

(Use only if your dog is not wearing a choke, pinch or prong collar, or any head halter, such as Halti®, Gentle Leader®, etc.)

Please Note:Options Three and Four use punishment. Punishment should decrease behavior quickly. If it doesn’t result in a noticeable decrease in pulling after several training sessions of consistent use, then it should be stopped. Ineffective punishment repeated over and over easily escalates and can become abusive. Stop both these methods if your dog yelps in pain, becomes reluctant to walk with you, becomes aggressive, or shows fearful body language like cringing, cowering, trembling, excessive panting, tail tucking, etc.

For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient for them to understand that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls, it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a verbal warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat (but keep moving). If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly, letting the leash check your dog. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash and he gets farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.

Be advised that if your dog is running at full speed toward the end of the leash, you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow the leash to check him without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.

Option Four: Collar Correction

(Use only if your dog is not wearing a choke, pinch or prong collar, or any head halter, such as Halti®, Gentle Leader®, etc. )

Some dogs may respond to a jerk on the collar when they pull. Walk holding the end of the leash near your left side, with your elbow bent. Don’t let your dog pull your arm straight out in front of you because then you won’t have the slack you need for the collar correction. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat (keep moving). If he does not slow down and gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, jerk sharply on the leash backward and upward. To do this, you’ll need to reach your arm forward a few inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows down. How much pressure you exert when you apply the jerk depends on the dog. If your dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and tenacious, you may need stronger force. Be sure to quickly reward with treats and praise any time your dog isn’t pulling and walks with you with the leash slack.

Be advised that if you jerk too hard on your dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to his neck. The dog’s trachea is susceptible to bruising and permanent damage, so be extremely cautious using this approach. If this method is effective for your dog, it will decrease or eliminate pulling quickly, within a couple of days. If it does not, try another method or change equipment. Do not keep doing collar corrections or let them become an ineffective habit that is painful and unpleasant for your dog.

Choosing the Right Walking Equipment

While you’re teaching your dog not to pull, you should use a four-foot or six-foot leash. Use whichever width and material that feel comfortable to you. Extendable leashes and leashes longer than six feet are great for exercising dogs, but they don’t work well if you’re trying to teach your dog not to pull on leash.

Suitable Choices

• Regular buckle or snap collar
• Martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar or greyhound collar)
• Head halter/head collar (such as the Halti®, the Gentle Leader® and the Snoot Loop®) Please notethat these are only suitable for Options One and Two. Serious injury could result if they are used with punishment methods using leash jerking.
• No-pull harness (such as the SENSE-ation®, the Easy Walk® or the LUPI®)

Head halters and no-pull harnesses can decrease pulling enough for you without any additional training. They are effective tools, making walks more pleasant for you and your dog, so some people decide not to train at all. Just keep in mind that if you choose to use them without training, they won’t have any effect on pulling when your dog is not wearing the equipment. Dogs learn very specifically. If they learn not to pull while wearing a head halter, they won’t automatically know not to pull when they’re wearing something else, like a flat collar.

Unsuitable Choices

• Regular body harness (Actually encourages pulling)
• Fabric or metal choke/check collar (May be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer)
• A pinch/prong collar (May be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer)

Dogs Who Resist Walking on Leash

Some dogs seem reluctant to walk on leash. Instead of pulling, they freeze or turn around and pull back toward home. Often these dogs are fearful, and they need help feeling comfortable when walking on leash.

• Try leading your dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his nose. If he isn’t too afraid, he’ll follow the treats and gradually become more comfortable walking with you.
• When your dog freezes, you can also try stopping a few feet in front of your dog and waiting. If he shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach toward him to deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again wait for your dog to voluntarily move toward you. Praise and reward him only for forward movement.
• A third technique is appropriate only for small- to medium-sized dogs who walk for stretches at a time but then balk for no apparent reason. Have your dog wear a regular body harness. When he stops walking, pick him up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet along. This may “jump start” your dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and treat when the dog begins to move again on his own. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him along with treats so that he never stops.It will help to walk your dog in less frightening environments at first. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet residential street or a path through the park. Gradually progress to busier areas as your dog develops confidence in quieter places.
  Some dogs respond well if you ask them to do something else when they stop forward movement. Ask your dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw or perform any other convenient behavior that he knows well and enjoys. This may help your dog forget why he was nervous and begin walking again. Of course, you should praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.
  Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hanging out with your dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats for any signs of relaxing in the situation, such as being calmer and able to pay attention to you and do easy behaviors you ask him to do (like sit) for tasty rewards.

Correcting Bad Behavior in Birds

Correcting Bad Behavior in Birds
When asked why she believes that birds are descended from dinosaurs, an acquaintance of mine who owns a Scarlet Macaw will readily reply: "Would you like to see the scar on my arm?"

Beliefs about the origins of birds aside, most can agree that some parts of a bird's anatom can deliver quite painful attacks if our pets become angry with us. Indeed, the instincts and inherently wild nature of our avian companions can bring forth many behaviors that are undesirable in the home. Dealing with these issues can be especially trying for bird owners, given that their feathered friends are such highly sociable and emotionally sensitive creatures. Read on for tips that will help you gently but effectively convey your displeasure toward undesirable behavior in your pet bird. 

The Rules of Avian Discipline

Although at times your pet may behave in a way that annoys you or makes you downright mad, it's important to remember these rules when responding to the transgression: 

• Never hit a bird. Birds are extremely fragile creatures and even the slightest force can cause severe injury or death. Physically abusing a bird can also lead to irreversible psychological problems, and can promote aggression and viciousness. 
  
• Don't hold a grudge. Birds are extremely intelligent, but also very sensitive creatures. When you express displeasure with your bird's behavior, make the lesson short and sweet. Prolonged negative attention can cause undue emotional stress for your pet. 
  
• Never compromise your bird's health. "Punishing" a bird by witholding food or neglecting cage cleaning  is never a fit way to deal with a behavior problem. Such actions are not only cruel, but can cause serious physical and emotional damage for the pet.

Responding to Bad Behavior

In order for your bird to understand you when you catch him acting up, it's necessary that you remember the correct way to respond. While a normal "human" response to an unpleasant discovery would be to loudly declare your grievance, a bird can interpret this reaction and body language as excitement -- meaning that he may actually think you are praising the behavior. Conclusively, dealing with a bird's behavior problem can be just as much about training yourself as it is about training your pet. 

In order to respond properly to undesirable behavior, it's helpful to keep the following steps in mind. With consistency and patience, you may find 

Different Kinds of Large Birds

Birds of all types and sizes are certainly captivating and fascinating creatures, but some of the most impressive of all are the large birds, and in particular, the large parrot species. These birds know no ends to their talents -- many of them can learn to talk, perform tricks, and complete a variety of tasks to delight their owners, enriching the bonds that they share with them. Most of all, these birds have endlessly charming personalities, and many would argue that they are some of the most affectionate pets in the animal kingdom. Read on to learn more about some of the different types of large birds that are commonly kept in captivity, and discover what it's like to share a home with these magnificent creatures.

• Cockatoos

Originating in Australia, there are as many types of Cockatoos as there are colors of the rainbow -- but one thing that they all have in common is that they make incredible affectionate and loving pets for the right people. Caring for a Cockatoo can be a tough job. They require many hours of direct interaction each day and thrive on their owners' companionship. Anyone who adopts a Cockatoo must make sure that they have plenty of free time to spend with their birds, otherwise a Cockatoo will not be very happy in captivity. For those who are up to the task, these birds can provide a wealth of love and companionship.

• Eclectus Parrots

Another favorite type of large bird are the Eclectus Parrots, also hailing from "Down Under." These birds are unique in that they are known as a dimorphic species, which means that the males can be discerned from the females just by looking at the colors of their feathers. The male Eclectus is a bright green color, with red and blue accents on the undersides of his wings. The females are a brilliant red color, with vivid purple bellies. Both make excellent pets, and have charming and affectionate personalities when properly socialized.

• African Grey Parrots

As their name makes evident, the beautiful African Grey Parrots are originally from Africa, and are widely known as some of the most intelligent bird species on the planet. Many studies have been done on these birds, and the results have been astounding -- some have even found that these birds have the intellect and emotional capacities of human toddlers, which is pretty incredible! Of course, this means that African Greys need special owners that have a deep commitment to caring for them. They need lots of human interaction, mental stimulation, and socialization in order to thrive as pets, so it's important that anyone who adopts one to make sure that they can meet their needs.

• Amazon Parrots

The strikingly beautiful Amazon Parrots come from South America, where they make their homes in warm and humid climates. Even so, they have grown to become popular pets all around the world. These birds are very clever and many become proficient talkers, building impressive vocabularies and speaking with great clarity. They are affectionate with their owners and form strong bonds with their human caretakers. Amazon parrots have been known to live for a very long time in captivity, even in excess of 60 years. For this reason and more, it's very important that those who are interested in keeping one as a pet has the desire and the means to commit to providing excellent care for them.

• Macaws

The bold Macaws are some of the most easily recognizable birds on the planet, no doubt due to their popularity in movies and bird shows around the world. It's no wonder that these birds are a favorite of those in the entertainment industry -- they are beautiful, intelligent, and highly trainable, capable of learning to mimic speech as well as perform a variety of tricks and commands. Like other large birds, Macaws make loving pets who bond strongly to their owners and need lots of interaction. Make sure that you are able to provide a Macaw with several hours of social time each day before rushing out to bring one home.

Best Birds for Young People

It's easy for kids to become fascinated with animals, and birds are no exception. Often, I receive letters from parents asking about the best types of birds to get as a pet for their children. My usual response is that they should first make sure that their child can be a good owner for a pet bird! All bird species need special care and attentive owners to make sure that they thrive in their homes as pets. If you feel like your child is responsible enough to keep a pet bird, then you might consider some of the species listed below as a pet for them. Remember that you must always take care to peek in and see how your little one is doing with his or her pet, however. Even the most responsible children can use a helping hand now and then, and you don't want an innocent bird to pay the price for a child's inability to care for it.

Budgies

One of the most popular pet bird species for young and old alike are the charming little Budgies, also known to many as simply "Parakeets." Budgies are pretty little birds that can be found in a variety of color combinations. They are extremely intelligent and can be taught a number of fun tricks, and many learn to speak very well, although they have tiny little voices. On average, a pet Budgie lives for between 5 and 9 years in captivity, although some have been known to live for much longer

Finches

 Cockatiels

Another type of bird that has long been hailed as an excellent choice for children is the beautiful and intelligent Cockatiel. It's rare for one of these birds to talk, but many Cockatiels enjoy mimicking other types of sounds, such as doorbells and telephones. These birds have unique personalities and playful natures, making them a good choice for older children who want a bird that they can really interact with. Cockatiels normally live for between 10 and 20 years in captivity, so make sure that your child is up to the task of being responsible for their bird for quite a long time before bringing a Cockatiel home.

Doves

An often overlooked species that happens to be my personal favorite for quiet, well-behaved children is the lovable Dove . Doves are calm, gentle, reserved birds who do well with people who embody the same traits. Older children in particular might do well caring for a Dove, who can grow fondly accustomed to being gently handled and played with. Some captive pet doves have been known to live for up to 25 years, so keeping one is definitely a commitment, however, they can make lovely pets in the right situation

Conures

For extremely responsible children who are perhaps a little older, a parent might consider adopting one of the many captivating types of Conures as a pet. Conures are medium sized parrots, but many of them possess the same traits as their larger counterparts. They have big personalities, and do best with owners who are committed to providing them with plenty of exercise, playtime, and interaction. If you are interested in getting a Conure for your child, then you might do well to consider the bird more of a family pet, if anything. Be aware that in all likelihood, you will need to assume some of the responsibility of caring for the bird, as such a species could prove too taxing for a young person.

7 Things Your Cat Would Say to You if He Could Talk :-)

I'm Sorry I Broke Your Antique Vase

I know it is not an excuse, but those flowers in the vase smelled so good that I thought I'd like a taste of them. Those old plastic flowers you had in it before were hard and crunchy, but they didn't taste good at all. These flowers that were in the vase taste as good as they smell.

Maybe if you had put the vase up on the refrigerator, I would not have been able to reach it. Or maybe you could have put a pretty metal bowl on that table filled with some nice tasty kitty treats I could eat, you would not be so upset with me right now.

I Don't Feel so Good Since I Ate Those Flowers

I threw up after I ate those pretty flowers, but I still feel sick. You know how much I hate going to that sick cat place, but I always feel better when I get back home. Will you please take me there? Right away?

Thank you, I feel much better already and I promise never to eat those poisonous flowers again.

Can You Play With Me Today?

Would you please spend some time playing with me today? It always makes me so happy when we play together. I love playing with that bird on a string. I can still jump high to catch it, even though I'm no longer a kitten.

And sometimes you let me catch the bird, until I start to drag it away. Sometimes I chase it for so long that I get tired, so you put it away up high so I can't reach it.

Or maybe you would like to play the red light game. I love to chase that light along the floor, and I can run almost as fast as the red dot can.If you make it go around in circles, I can either ride it like a merry-ro-round, or I can sit in the middle and catch it when it comes past.

It's really, REALLY fun when the red dot climbs the wall. I can jump really high and catch it, and I always land on my feet when I come down. That's a pretty amazing talent we cats have, landing on our feet.

Oh, I almost forgot one thing. Thank you for being so careful that the dot doesn't ever shine in my eyes. I know you do that so it won't damage my sight, and I really appreciate it.

Please, Can You Give Me Variety in my Food?

I know that you want to feed me the most nutritious food you can afford, and I really do like this flavor. But once in awhile I yearn for something different, like maybe beef and vegetables.

Or even tuna, once in a great while. I know red tuna is not good for cats, 'cause we develop a disease called steatitis. But But maybe just one meal of cat food with ahi tuna every two weeks or so wouldn't be too bad. Maybe you could ask my doctor if that would be all right.

I Wish I Could Go Outside

I enjoy looking out the windows and seeing all the pretty flowers, And the birds, and the animals like raccoons and deer---and skunks. I don't think I'd like to see a bear, though. But the bears only come around at night. I don't think I'd like to go outside at night

But if you got me a harness and a leash, maybe you could take me outside during the day. The only time I've been outside during the day was when I was just a kitten living on the street. But you loved me enough to rescue me and bring me home to be your forever cat.

And now the only time I get to go outside is in that cat crate when you take me to the cat doctor place. That really isn't what I'd call outside fun

Please can we get a harness and a lesh so I can go outside with you? Oh, THANK

We Need a New Scratching Post

I know you get a little miffed at me when I scratch the top of your leather office chair. Or the arms of your leather sofa and loveseat. But really, Mom! Have you taken a look at our scratching post lately? With six cats using it now, it looks pretty ratty.

Yes, you've supplied us with plenty of cat towers throughout the house with built-in scratching posts and we enjoy them too. But in the evening when you are watching television, I like to come out and get some nice scratching exercise. That old worn out thing just doesn't cut it.

We'd all be really happy campers with a brand new Purrfect Post in the living room. You've always been so anti-declaw, and believe me, we all appreciate that! And you, yourself, have said many times that a good scratching post will discourage cats from scratching furniture.

To borrow a phrase from you, we rest our case.

Thank You For Being Such a Good Cat Mom

Don't think we don't appreciate that you have always considered your cats to be members of your family, just like your own human children. Our welfare has always come first with you. We know there are times you have deprived yourself to make sure we had the best food, excellent veterinary care, as well as toys and cat furniture and a loving home atmosphere.

Yes, you've made a few mistakes. Even we cats aren't entirely perfect. But we know you learn by your mistakes, then you help other people learn by your mistakes. We cats don't always learn by our mistakes, so we're grateful to have you watching out for us.And at the end of the day, when you cuddle me in your arms as I purr us both to sleep, I feel like I'm in Kitty Heaven. Thank you for loving all of us, unconditionally.

Rabbit Care Guide

Rabbits make great pets. This care guide will help you get the most enjoyment out of your rabbit.

1. Is a Rabbit Right for You?

The first thing to consider is that rabbits have a long life span, so be prepared to care for your pet rabbit through the long term. They are also unique creatures, who form tight bonds with their families, though they have some quirks you should know about. They also require some routine vet care from a good rabbit vet, and are not low maintenance pets. If you are prepared for all the unique qualities and needs of rabbits, you will best be able to fully enjoy the wonderful companionship they can offer.

Rabbits can make absolutely delightful pets, but as always, having the right expectations will help you develop a strong bond with your pet. Find out all you can about the care of pet rabbits as well as the pros and cons of pet rabbits before choosing a pet rabbit.

Rabbits are very social as well as active and playful, forming close bond with their owners. As long as you know what to expect from a pet rabbit, they have the potential to be wonderful pets.

Life expectancy: varies with breed, anywhere from 5 to 15 years.

Why Rabbits Can Make Good Pets

Rabbits are social and with gentle handling are generally quite tame.

They are playful and entertaining to watch.

Rabbits often form very close bonds with their owners.

They can be litter trained. They also respond well to gentle training (try a clicker) and can be trained to do special behaviors and tricks.

What You Need to Know Before Deciding on a Rabbit

Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are a necessity.

Rabbits are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.

Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.

They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.

They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.

While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.

Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held.

They will likely require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should be spayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines).

Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (spaying and neutering can help reduce the odor. In addition their urine is high in calcium so can leave a chalky residue when it dries that can be hard to clean up (vinegar is pretty effective for this).

2. Choosing a Healthy Rabbit

A fairly quick look at potential pet rabbit will help you sort out if there are any obvious signs of illness or other issues. While there are no guarantees, avoiding rabbits that have common signs of health problems can save you a lot of heartache in the future. By having a close look at a rabbit you are considering, you also get a chance to see the personality of the rabbit.

A note on where to find rabbits: if you have decided to add a rabbit to the family, I highly recommend you start out by looking at your local shelter or rabbit rescues. There are lots of rabbits who need a second chance at a forever home.

When choosing a rabbit, looking at a few simple things can help ensure that your new pet is a healthy one.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:

1. Look at the overall body condition - the rabbit should be neither fat nor skinny, with no swellings.
2. The rabbit's coat should be well groomed, with no bare patches. Check for soiling aroung the rear end, as this may indicate a problem with diarrhea.
3. Look at the ears, they should be pink, not red, and free of discharge. The ear flaps shouldn't be damaged.
4. The eyes should be bright and free from discharge. Check the coat around the eyes for signs of wetness or tear staining.
5. Check the nose - it should also be free of discharge.
6. Try to get a look at the teeth, they should not be overgrown and should be well-aligned. Also check for wet or matted fur on the chin.
7. Observe the rabbit's breathing, which should be quiet and not labored.
8. Watch the rabbit move around - it should have no signs of lameness, stiffness, or reluctance to move around.
9. Look at the rabbit's surroundings - a rabbit kept in clean conditions, without crowding will have less exposure to stress and disease.
10. Observe how the rabbit reacts to people - ideally pick a rabbit that is relatively calm about being approached and petted
Tips:
1. Although babies are cute, there are many adult house rabbits in need of homes, so consider visiting a shelter or rescue.
2. It is wise to resist the tempation to adopt a sickly rabbit unless prepared for the possibility of expensive treatment and possible heartbreak.
3. When buying from a breeder, make sure they are breeding for a specific goal (e.g. temperament and health).

3. Choose a Rabbit Cage

Choosing the right kind of cage for your rabbit is extremely important. Cages that are spacious enough, easy to clean, and easy to for your rabbit to get in and out of, will make sharing your home with a rabbit so much easier. A cage that is large enough is important for the well-being of your pet rabbit, but is is no substitute for exercise and social time out of the cage.

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny.

How Big

As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.

Cage Design

As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

4. Feeding Pet Rabbits

Even the best quality rabbit pellet is not adequate on its own as a diet for pet rabbits. Plenty of fresh grass hay is very important in a rabbit's diet, as are fresh greens and vegetables. The right diet is critical to keeping pet rabbits healthy -- find out the scoop on feeding your rabbit a well balanced and high fiber diet.

Fiber is vital to the normal function of the digestive system in rabbits. Fresh grass hay and vegetables should make up the bulk of the diet for house rabbits. Feeding a diet consisting mainly of pellets may result in obesity and increase the likelihood of digestive problems. While there is some fiber in pellets, it is finely ground and does not appear to stimulate intestinal function as well as fiber found in grass hays. Roughage also aids in the prevention of hair balls. The addition of some pellets does add some balance to the diet, however.Anything other than hay, vegetables, and pellets is considered a treat and should be feed in strict moderation. The digestive system of a rabbit is very susceptible to serious upsets if the diet is inappropriate. The amount of pellets should be restricted, especially in overweight rabbits, but any reduction in pellets should be made up with a variety of fresh vegetables and unlimited access to hay.

Hay 
Hay (grass hays such as timothy or oat hay) should be available at all times. Some rabbits may not take much hay at first. Adding fresh hay a couple of times a day may help, and as the amount of pellets is reduced the rabbit will likely become hungry enough to eat the hay. The House Rabbit Society recommends starting baby bunnies on alfalfa hay and introducing grass hays by 6-7 months, gradually decreasing the alfalfa until the rabbit is solely on grass hays by 1 year. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein and lower fiber than the grass hays, although many owners find their rabbits prefer alfalfa hays. If your adult rabbit is used to alfalfa hay, try mixing alfalfa with a grass hay to start and gradually reduce the amount of alfalfa

Vegetables 
Vegetable should make up a large portion of the diet. Depending on the size of the rabbit, 2-4 cups of fresh veggies should be given per day. A variety must be fed daily to ensure a balanced diet. If a rabbit is used to eating mainly pellets, the change must be made gradually to allow the rabbit's digestive system time to adjust. Only add one new vegetable to the diet at a time so if the rabbit has diarrhea or other problems it will be possible to tell which vegetable is the culprit. Suggested vegetable include carrots, carrot tops, parsley, broccoli, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, endive, romaine lettuce, kale and spinach. However, kale, spinach and mustard greens are high in oxalates so their feeding should be limited to 3 meals per week. Beans, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes may cause problems and should be avoided. Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value so should be avoided. Rhubarb should also be avoided (toxicity). Wash vegetables well, and only feed dandelions that are known to be pesticide free (try a health food store for organically grown dandelion greens).

Vegetables should be introduced to bunnies around 12 weeks of age, in small quantities and one at a time. As more vegetable are added watch for diarrhea and discontinue the most recently added vegetable if this occurs. Over time, the amount of vegetables fed is increased, and the amount of pellets decreased, so that by 1 year of age the adult feeding recommendations are followed.

Pellets 
Pellets are basically designed for commercial rabbit production, and are quite high in calories. As a result, house rabbits fed unlimited pellets may end up with obesity and related health problems, as well as an excess of other nutrients. Pellets do have a place in rabbit nutrition, as they are rich and balanced in nutrients. However, experts recommend restricting the amoung of pellets fed, and compensating with fresh vegetables (see below) and grass hays.

Choose a fresh, good quality pellet. The House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 20-25% fiber, around 14% protein (with no animal protein), and less than 1% Calcium for most house rabbits (spayed/neutered). For adults, the amount should be carefully regulated, depending on the size (weight) of the rabbit. As a rule, give about 1/4 cup for rabbits 5-7 lb, 1/2 cup for 8-10 lb rabbits, and 3/4 cup for 11-15b lb rabbits. Baby rabbits can be fed pellets free choice (available at all times), decreasing to 1/2 cup per 6 lb. of body weight by around 6 months.

Treats 
The House Rabbit Society recommends 1-2 tablespoons of fresh fruits be given daily as a treat. Treats sold in pet stores marketed for rabbits are generally unnecessary and in some cases could cause digestive problems due to their high carbohydrate or sugar content. Instead of food treats, consider offering twigs from apple or willow trees (pesticide-free only).

5. Rabbit Training and Behavior

Rabbits are really quite trainable, but it may take some patience, especially when it comes to litter training and redirecting very natural behaviors like chewing and digging. The following articles can help you understand why your rabbits do the things they do, and ways to train them to do some of the things you want them to do:

*Rabbit Communication Basics

Thumping:

When a rabbit thumps or stomps on the ground with a hind leg, it can make a surprisingly loud noise. This is the way rabbits commuicate danger to other rabbits, and sometimes it is a sign of annoyance. Interpretation: "I'm scared and nervous" or "I'm annoyed with you."

Teeth Grinding:

Gentle, soft grinding of the teeth in a relaxed rabbit is communicates contentment (and sounds almost like a cat purring). On the other hand, loud teeth grinding is a sign of pain or discomfort, and your rabbit will often also be tense or hunched up when this occurs. 
Interpretation: softly grinding teeth: "This is great" 
Loudly grinding teeth: "Oooh, I'm in pain and I don't feel good" (this also means a trip to the vet is in order as soon as possible)

Chin Rubbing:

You may witness your rabbit rubbing its chin on objects or even people. Rabbits have scent glands on their chins that they use to scent mark territories and objects (the scent is not detectable by people, though, the scent is strictly for rabbit communication). 

Interpretation: "This is mine!"

Binky:

The binky is the unique and acrobatic jump accompanied by twisting the body or kicking the legs. Rabbits use the binky to communicate that they are feeling very happy and playful. 

Interpretation: "Life is Great! I'm so Happy!"

Licking:

A bunny that licks you has fully accepted you and is showing you affection. 

Interpretation: "I like you"

Circling Your Feet:

A rabbit that follows you around circling your feet may just be trying to get your attention, but more likely your rabbit is sexually mature and is courting you (especially if accompanied by soft honking or oiking noises). 

Interpretation: Usually mean "I'm in love with you" and means it is time to get bunny spayed or neutered. Sometimes simply means "Here I am, let's play."

Flat Rabbit:

When a rabbit flattens itself on its belly with its head down and ears held very flat, he or she is frightened and is trying to blend into his or her surroundings. (Note: a relaxed rabbit may also lay flat, but a relaxed rabbit has different body language: relaxed muscles and expression.) 
Interpretation: "I'm scared!"

Flopping:

A content rabbit that is sitting still or grooming may suddenly flop onto its side and lay still. Owners often fear something dire has happened, but it is a sign of utter relaxation. 
Interpretation: "oh, I'm just so relaxed."

Lunging:

A sudden movement towards you with the head up, tail up and ears back is a very clear form of rabbit communication: an unmistakable threat. 
Interpreation: "I don't like that, back off!"

Vocalizations:

Rabbits are capable of some vocalizations that they use for communication, which sometimes surprise owners. Here are their interpretations: 
Soft Squeal or Whimper: mild annoyance or displeasure. 
Grunting, Growling, Snorting, and Hissing: all communicate varied stages of anger, stress, or feeling threatened. May be followed with a lunge or bite. 
Soft Honking or Oinking: commuicates sexual interest. If your rabbit is circling you and honking, it is time for neutering. 
Screaming: sign of extreme pain or fear. Do not ignore; reassure your rabbit and if there is no obvious reason your rabbit might be terrified, take your bunny to a vet.

Of course, rabbit body language is much more complex than what I have presented here. Rabbits communicate much information by how they position and move their bodies, and an experienced owner can learn to read their rabbit's signals quite well.

Rabbits usually take well to litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training.

The Litter

First a suitable litter is needed. You rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is ideal. Do not use clay or clumping litters, or cedar or pine wood shavings. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are a good choice (brands include Critter Country, Eco-Straw Pellets, Gentle Touch, Cell-Sorb Plus and Yesterday's News - see Top Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings for more options) Some owners simply use rabbit pellets as litter. These are economical and safe, but are not a good choice if your rabbit continually eats extra pellets from the litter box and/or is overweight.

The Box

For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). The larger size of corner litter boxes might work well for smaller rabbits too, as these usually have fairly high backs.

If our rabbit tends to tip the pan or kick the litter out, try a heavier litter.

Steps to Litter Training 
To start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. At first, keep your rabbit primairly in his (or her cage), which should be fairly small at first, with a litter pan. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where you rabbit eliminates. He (she) may start using the box, or may be pick another corner of the cage as a toilet. If this is the case, then move the litter box to the area your rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage.

Once your rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited area. Provide a litter box within this area, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch your rabbit for signs he is about to urinate or defecate (they usually back up and lift their tail slightly), and try to herd him to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place him right in the box). If your rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat (food, toy, petting, or praise) right away. If you notice your rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here.

Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. Your rabbit will absolutely not be able to make a connection with physical punishment and elimitnating outside the litter box. If you catch your rabbit in the act calmly and gently take him or her to the litter box immediately. But, if your don't physically catch your rabbit urinating or defecating, it is too late for your rabbit to make the connection. Just clean up and watch your rabbit a little more closely next time (clean the spot diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover). The key is to get your rabbit to the box before he goes, so a trip to the litter box every 10 minutes during playtime can be helpful.

Over time, your rabbit will probably develop a preference for using the box, and amount of freedom you give your rabbit can be increased. You may need to provide more boxes as you allow your rabbit acces to more space (rabbits may not go far in search of a box so have them handy). Again, if your rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider putting or moving a litter box there. Try to work with what your rabbit naturally wants to do, but if the location they "choose" is inconvenient, you can try putting a litter box there for a while and then gradually move it to a better spot. Sometimes, placing a bowl of food where you don't want them to go works too.

The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means backtracking and restricting freedom until your rabbit is trained again.

Rabbit Proofing

Rabbits like to chew, and the most important task in rabbit proofing is to make sure there is nothing dangerous within your rabbit's reach. You will also want to protect your belongings from your rabbit.

You will have to decide how much freedom your bunny will have. This might depend on your bunny's age, training, and the level of supervision you can provide. Some bunnies are given access to most of the house, but many owners prefer to limit their rabbit to a single room for out-of-the-cage time. Even if you want to give your bunny full access to your house, you might want start off confining him or her to a single room until bunny is litter trained and you have gotten a handle on chewing and other undesirable behaviors.

Get Down To Your Bunny's Level 

One of the most helpful ways to identify what might attract your rabbit's attention is to get on your hands and knees and look at the house from that perspective. From there you might spot hazards and spaces that you normally wouldn't notice.

Electrical and Phone Cords 

These are seemingly irresistible to many rabbits. Because of the risk of elecrocution to your rabbit and your home's safety, it is imperative that electrical cords are out of reach. It may be possible to arrange the furniture in your room to hide most electrical cords (but don't run them under carpets due to fire risk). Any that cannot be hidden should be covered. Plastic tubing with a slit down one side in available to encase wires, or you can find different diameters of tubing at hardware and pond supply stores (which you can slit with a utility knife). You can also get hard plastic wire channels that attach neatly to the floor or baseboard. For determined rabbits you might even need to go to PVC tubing to protect wires. Have a look at many options for hiding wires at CableOrganizers.com. You can treat phone cords the same way.

Houseplants 

Houseplants should be kept out of reach to prevent rabbits from eating them and/or digging in the soil. Make sure your houseplants are non toxic; even if the plant is out of reach, leaves may fall where your rabbit can eat them. Check this list of poisonous plants from the San Diego Chapter of the House Rabbit Society, and remove any that are of concern.

Chewing 

Rabbits will try to chew anything. As mentioned previously, cords are a favorite target, but rabbits will also chew furniture (expecially wooden legs), baseboards, books, carpet edges, and anything else that appeals to them. Try to block access to any favorite chewing targets. Wooden furniture legs can be wrapped in heavy plastic or tin foil to discourage chewing. Carpets should be securely tacked down, especially in corners and at doorways. If your rabbit starts chewing, you can cover the carpet in trouble areas with plexiglass, plastic carpet protectors meant to go under office chairs, a piece of furniture, or untreated grass mats. Heavy slipcovers or blankets can be used to protect couches and chairs. Make sure books, treasured knick knacks, shoes, and other chewables are kept out of reach. Also make sure your rabbit can't get into your garbage cans or waste baskets.

Digging 
Rabbits also love digging, and may do significant damage to carpets or furniture from this activity. Favorite spots seem to be corners and under closed doors, although your rabbit may try to dig anywhere. Deal with digging behaviors in much the same way as chewing: block off problem areas, cover favorite spots with plexiglass, plastic mats, or untreated grass mats, and make sure carpets are securely tacked down.

Hiding Spots 
Rabbits like to get into tight spaces. They like to hide under furniture and beds, but sometimes they chew and climb up into the underside of these items, so you may need to tack a piece of plywood to the underside of your boxspring mattress or use wood to block access to the underside of furniture. Appliances should be inaccessible, as rabbits can get under or behind them and become injured, stuck, or chew on the wires. Also block any other tight spaces in which your bunny could get stuck, and make sure there are no spaces throught which your rabbit could escape.

*How Can I Train My Rabbit Not to Chew Everything in Sight?

1. Provide Alternatives 

Since your rabbit needs to chew, first you need to provide a good variety of alternatives on which your rabbit can safely chew. Branches from apple or willow trees, safe rabbit toys, untreated willow baskets and toys, untreated grass mats, and cardboard all make good alternatives. Providing multiple items gives your rabbit more choice and if you have different sizes and types of chew toys around, chances are one of them will satisfy your rabbit's craving to chew. Of course, you should also provide your rabbit with a couple of safe chew toys in the cage as well. A variety items to help keep your rabbit occupied can be found in "Rabbit Toys."

2. Rabbit-Proof Your Home 

Good rabbit-proofing takes away much of the temptation and opportunity to get into trouble. Don't give your rabbit free run of your home, at least not at first: pick a limited space and thoroughly rabbit-proof that space to make training easier. Things like electrical wires are very dangerous for your rabbit so you must make sure there is no way your rabbit can get to them in the first place. Furniture and other belongings should also be protected. The less your rabbit can demolish, the less frustrated you will be, and training will be smoother. See "Rabbit-Proofing Your Home" for more strategies.

3. Supervise and Redirect 
Your rabbit doesn't instinctively know that he is not allowed to chew on your furniture and other belongings, so you must teach him. This means when you are starting out with a new rabbit, you must watch your rabbit carefully at playtime. Make sure you start this training as soon as you bring your rabbit home, so no bad habits get started. Whenever your rabbit tries to chew something he/she should not, say "no" firmly (no need to yell) and clap your hands, and then give your rabbit an appropriate chew toy.

4. Have Patience 
Your rabbit will take time to learn, and he or she will probably test you along the way, so be patient but consistent. Never hit your rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going back to your things instead of chewing on her toys, put your bunny in a "time-out" in the cage for a few minutes. Another alternative is to use an exercise pen (collapsible, portable cage for dogs) for at least part of playtime outside of the cage, so you can relax on supervision and training a bit. As your rabbit gets older and settles down, chewing will become less of an issue, but consistency and patience right from the beginning is your biggest training advantage.

5. Spay and Neuter 
Spaying or neutering rabbits helps make them less prone to destructive behavior, including chewing.

Note: about Bitter Apple Spray and other Deterrents: 
You can try using a bitter apple spray (available at pet stores) on items your rabbit likes to chew. Many rabbits don't mind the taste, though (and some even seem to like it), so while this may be worth a try, is often not effective. If it does work with your rabbit, the spray must be re-applied frequently.

6. Rabbit Health

You should try to find a knowledgeable rabbit vet, to spay or neuter your rabbit and to call on if your rabbit develops health problems. In some parts of the world, rabbits are vaccinated as well, so find a vet and check with them about a preventative health plan for your rabbit.

 Rabbits are generally pretty hardy, but these are some common questions about health related concerns in pet rabbits:

How do I Find a Good Rabbit Vet? - finding a veterinarian experienced with rabbits can be difficult but is well worth the trouble. It is a good idea to have a veterinarian you are comfortable well before you need one so you are not left scrambling in case of emergency.

Should I Spay or Neuter My Rabbit? - in short the answer is yes, but this answer includes several reasons why it is a good idea and why you need to find the right vet to do the surgery.

At What Age should I Spay or Neuter? - your vet will have recommendations that suit your bunny personally but here are general guidelines.

Isn't Surgery Risky for Rabbits? - you may have heard that surgery is dangerous in rabbits and the answer to this question is is related to question number 1.

How do I Prevent Hairballs? - the answer is more complicated than just grooming.

Is my Rabbit Supposed to Eating His or Her Feces? - a common question, because it sometimes shocks new bunny owners if they see this!