Rabbit Care Guide

Rabbits make great pets. This care guide will help you get the most enjoyment out of your rabbit.

1. Is a Rabbit Right for You?

The first thing to consider is that rabbits have a long life span, so be prepared to care for your pet rabbit through the long term. They are also unique creatures, who form tight bonds with their families, though they have some quirks you should know about. They also require some routine vet care from a good rabbit vet, and are not low maintenance pets. If you are prepared for all the unique qualities and needs of rabbits, you will best be able to fully enjoy the wonderful companionship they can offer.

Rabbits can make absolutely delightful pets, but as always, having the right expectations will help you develop a strong bond with your pet. Find out all you can about the care of pet rabbits as well as the pros and cons of pet rabbits before choosing a pet rabbit.

Rabbits are very social as well as active and playful, forming close bond with their owners. As long as you know what to expect from a pet rabbit, they have the potential to be wonderful pets.

Life expectancy: varies with breed, anywhere from 5 to 15 years.

Why Rabbits Can Make Good Pets

Rabbits are social and with gentle handling are generally quite tame.

They are playful and entertaining to watch.

Rabbits often form very close bonds with their owners.

They can be litter trained. They also respond well to gentle training (try a clicker) and can be trained to do special behaviors and tricks.

What You Need to Know Before Deciding on a Rabbit

Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are a necessity.

Rabbits are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.

Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.

They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.

They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.

While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.

Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held.

They will likely require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should be spayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines).

Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (spaying and neutering can help reduce the odor. In addition their urine is high in calcium so can leave a chalky residue when it dries that can be hard to clean up (vinegar is pretty effective for this).

2. Choosing a Healthy Rabbit

A fairly quick look at potential pet rabbit will help you sort out if there are any obvious signs of illness or other issues. While there are no guarantees, avoiding rabbits that have common signs of health problems can save you a lot of heartache in the future. By having a close look at a rabbit you are considering, you also get a chance to see the personality of the rabbit.

A note on where to find rabbits: if you have decided to add a rabbit to the family, I highly recommend you start out by looking at your local shelter or rabbit rescues. There are lots of rabbits who need a second chance at a forever home.

When choosing a rabbit, looking at a few simple things can help ensure that your new pet is a healthy one.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:

1. Look at the overall body condition - the rabbit should be neither fat nor skinny, with no swellings.
2. The rabbit's coat should be well groomed, with no bare patches. Check for soiling aroung the rear end, as this may indicate a problem with diarrhea.
3. Look at the ears, they should be pink, not red, and free of discharge. The ear flaps shouldn't be damaged.
4. The eyes should be bright and free from discharge. Check the coat around the eyes for signs of wetness or tear staining.
5. Check the nose - it should also be free of discharge.
6. Try to get a look at the teeth, they should not be overgrown and should be well-aligned. Also check for wet or matted fur on the chin.
7. Observe the rabbit's breathing, which should be quiet and not labored.
8. Watch the rabbit move around - it should have no signs of lameness, stiffness, or reluctance to move around.
9. Look at the rabbit's surroundings - a rabbit kept in clean conditions, without crowding will have less exposure to stress and disease.
10. Observe how the rabbit reacts to people - ideally pick a rabbit that is relatively calm about being approached and petted
Tips:
1. Although babies are cute, there are many adult house rabbits in need of homes, so consider visiting a shelter or rescue.
2. It is wise to resist the tempation to adopt a sickly rabbit unless prepared for the possibility of expensive treatment and possible heartbreak.
3. When buying from a breeder, make sure they are breeding for a specific goal (e.g. temperament and health).

3. Choose a Rabbit Cage

Choosing the right kind of cage for your rabbit is extremely important. Cages that are spacious enough, easy to clean, and easy to for your rabbit to get in and out of, will make sharing your home with a rabbit so much easier. A cage that is large enough is important for the well-being of your pet rabbit, but is is no substitute for exercise and social time out of the cage.

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny.

How Big

As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.

Cage Design

As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

4. Feeding Pet Rabbits

Even the best quality rabbit pellet is not adequate on its own as a diet for pet rabbits. Plenty of fresh grass hay is very important in a rabbit's diet, as are fresh greens and vegetables. The right diet is critical to keeping pet rabbits healthy -- find out the scoop on feeding your rabbit a well balanced and high fiber diet.

Fiber is vital to the normal function of the digestive system in rabbits. Fresh grass hay and vegetables should make up the bulk of the diet for house rabbits. Feeding a diet consisting mainly of pellets may result in obesity and increase the likelihood of digestive problems. While there is some fiber in pellets, it is finely ground and does not appear to stimulate intestinal function as well as fiber found in grass hays. Roughage also aids in the prevention of hair balls. The addition of some pellets does add some balance to the diet, however.Anything other than hay, vegetables, and pellets is considered a treat and should be feed in strict moderation. The digestive system of a rabbit is very susceptible to serious upsets if the diet is inappropriate. The amount of pellets should be restricted, especially in overweight rabbits, but any reduction in pellets should be made up with a variety of fresh vegetables and unlimited access to hay.

Hay 
Hay (grass hays such as timothy or oat hay) should be available at all times. Some rabbits may not take much hay at first. Adding fresh hay a couple of times a day may help, and as the amount of pellets is reduced the rabbit will likely become hungry enough to eat the hay. The House Rabbit Society recommends starting baby bunnies on alfalfa hay and introducing grass hays by 6-7 months, gradually decreasing the alfalfa until the rabbit is solely on grass hays by 1 year. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein and lower fiber than the grass hays, although many owners find their rabbits prefer alfalfa hays. If your adult rabbit is used to alfalfa hay, try mixing alfalfa with a grass hay to start and gradually reduce the amount of alfalfa

Vegetables 
Vegetable should make up a large portion of the diet. Depending on the size of the rabbit, 2-4 cups of fresh veggies should be given per day. A variety must be fed daily to ensure a balanced diet. If a rabbit is used to eating mainly pellets, the change must be made gradually to allow the rabbit's digestive system time to adjust. Only add one new vegetable to the diet at a time so if the rabbit has diarrhea or other problems it will be possible to tell which vegetable is the culprit. Suggested vegetable include carrots, carrot tops, parsley, broccoli, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, endive, romaine lettuce, kale and spinach. However, kale, spinach and mustard greens are high in oxalates so their feeding should be limited to 3 meals per week. Beans, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes may cause problems and should be avoided. Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value so should be avoided. Rhubarb should also be avoided (toxicity). Wash vegetables well, and only feed dandelions that are known to be pesticide free (try a health food store for organically grown dandelion greens).

Vegetables should be introduced to bunnies around 12 weeks of age, in small quantities and one at a time. As more vegetable are added watch for diarrhea and discontinue the most recently added vegetable if this occurs. Over time, the amount of vegetables fed is increased, and the amount of pellets decreased, so that by 1 year of age the adult feeding recommendations are followed.

Pellets 
Pellets are basically designed for commercial rabbit production, and are quite high in calories. As a result, house rabbits fed unlimited pellets may end up with obesity and related health problems, as well as an excess of other nutrients. Pellets do have a place in rabbit nutrition, as they are rich and balanced in nutrients. However, experts recommend restricting the amoung of pellets fed, and compensating with fresh vegetables (see below) and grass hays.

Choose a fresh, good quality pellet. The House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 20-25% fiber, around 14% protein (with no animal protein), and less than 1% Calcium for most house rabbits (spayed/neutered). For adults, the amount should be carefully regulated, depending on the size (weight) of the rabbit. As a rule, give about 1/4 cup for rabbits 5-7 lb, 1/2 cup for 8-10 lb rabbits, and 3/4 cup for 11-15b lb rabbits. Baby rabbits can be fed pellets free choice (available at all times), decreasing to 1/2 cup per 6 lb. of body weight by around 6 months.

Treats 
The House Rabbit Society recommends 1-2 tablespoons of fresh fruits be given daily as a treat. Treats sold in pet stores marketed for rabbits are generally unnecessary and in some cases could cause digestive problems due to their high carbohydrate or sugar content. Instead of food treats, consider offering twigs from apple or willow trees (pesticide-free only).

5. Rabbit Training and Behavior

Rabbits are really quite trainable, but it may take some patience, especially when it comes to litter training and redirecting very natural behaviors like chewing and digging. The following articles can help you understand why your rabbits do the things they do, and ways to train them to do some of the things you want them to do:

*Rabbit Communication Basics

Thumping:

When a rabbit thumps or stomps on the ground with a hind leg, it can make a surprisingly loud noise. This is the way rabbits commuicate danger to other rabbits, and sometimes it is a sign of annoyance. Interpretation: "I'm scared and nervous" or "I'm annoyed with you."

Teeth Grinding:

Gentle, soft grinding of the teeth in a relaxed rabbit is communicates contentment (and sounds almost like a cat purring). On the other hand, loud teeth grinding is a sign of pain or discomfort, and your rabbit will often also be tense or hunched up when this occurs. 
Interpretation: softly grinding teeth: "This is great" 
Loudly grinding teeth: "Oooh, I'm in pain and I don't feel good" (this also means a trip to the vet is in order as soon as possible)

Chin Rubbing:

You may witness your rabbit rubbing its chin on objects or even people. Rabbits have scent glands on their chins that they use to scent mark territories and objects (the scent is not detectable by people, though, the scent is strictly for rabbit communication). 

Interpretation: "This is mine!"

Binky:

The binky is the unique and acrobatic jump accompanied by twisting the body or kicking the legs. Rabbits use the binky to communicate that they are feeling very happy and playful. 

Interpretation: "Life is Great! I'm so Happy!"

Licking:

A bunny that licks you has fully accepted you and is showing you affection. 

Interpretation: "I like you"

Circling Your Feet:

A rabbit that follows you around circling your feet may just be trying to get your attention, but more likely your rabbit is sexually mature and is courting you (especially if accompanied by soft honking or oiking noises). 

Interpretation: Usually mean "I'm in love with you" and means it is time to get bunny spayed or neutered. Sometimes simply means "Here I am, let's play."

Flat Rabbit:

When a rabbit flattens itself on its belly with its head down and ears held very flat, he or she is frightened and is trying to blend into his or her surroundings. (Note: a relaxed rabbit may also lay flat, but a relaxed rabbit has different body language: relaxed muscles and expression.) 
Interpretation: "I'm scared!"

Flopping:

A content rabbit that is sitting still or grooming may suddenly flop onto its side and lay still. Owners often fear something dire has happened, but it is a sign of utter relaxation. 
Interpretation: "oh, I'm just so relaxed."

Lunging:

A sudden movement towards you with the head up, tail up and ears back is a very clear form of rabbit communication: an unmistakable threat. 
Interpreation: "I don't like that, back off!"

Vocalizations:

Rabbits are capable of some vocalizations that they use for communication, which sometimes surprise owners. Here are their interpretations: 
Soft Squeal or Whimper: mild annoyance or displeasure. 
Grunting, Growling, Snorting, and Hissing: all communicate varied stages of anger, stress, or feeling threatened. May be followed with a lunge or bite. 
Soft Honking or Oinking: commuicates sexual interest. If your rabbit is circling you and honking, it is time for neutering. 
Screaming: sign of extreme pain or fear. Do not ignore; reassure your rabbit and if there is no obvious reason your rabbit might be terrified, take your bunny to a vet.

Of course, rabbit body language is much more complex than what I have presented here. Rabbits communicate much information by how they position and move their bodies, and an experienced owner can learn to read their rabbit's signals quite well.

Rabbits usually take well to litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training.

The Litter

First a suitable litter is needed. You rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is ideal. Do not use clay or clumping litters, or cedar or pine wood shavings. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are a good choice (brands include Critter Country, Eco-Straw Pellets, Gentle Touch, Cell-Sorb Plus and Yesterday's News - see Top Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings for more options) Some owners simply use rabbit pellets as litter. These are economical and safe, but are not a good choice if your rabbit continually eats extra pellets from the litter box and/or is overweight.

The Box

For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). The larger size of corner litter boxes might work well for smaller rabbits too, as these usually have fairly high backs.

If our rabbit tends to tip the pan or kick the litter out, try a heavier litter.

Steps to Litter Training 
To start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. At first, keep your rabbit primairly in his (or her cage), which should be fairly small at first, with a litter pan. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where you rabbit eliminates. He (she) may start using the box, or may be pick another corner of the cage as a toilet. If this is the case, then move the litter box to the area your rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage.

Once your rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited area. Provide a litter box within this area, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch your rabbit for signs he is about to urinate or defecate (they usually back up and lift their tail slightly), and try to herd him to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place him right in the box). If your rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat (food, toy, petting, or praise) right away. If you notice your rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here.

Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. Your rabbit will absolutely not be able to make a connection with physical punishment and elimitnating outside the litter box. If you catch your rabbit in the act calmly and gently take him or her to the litter box immediately. But, if your don't physically catch your rabbit urinating or defecating, it is too late for your rabbit to make the connection. Just clean up and watch your rabbit a little more closely next time (clean the spot diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover). The key is to get your rabbit to the box before he goes, so a trip to the litter box every 10 minutes during playtime can be helpful.

Over time, your rabbit will probably develop a preference for using the box, and amount of freedom you give your rabbit can be increased. You may need to provide more boxes as you allow your rabbit acces to more space (rabbits may not go far in search of a box so have them handy). Again, if your rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider putting or moving a litter box there. Try to work with what your rabbit naturally wants to do, but if the location they "choose" is inconvenient, you can try putting a litter box there for a while and then gradually move it to a better spot. Sometimes, placing a bowl of food where you don't want them to go works too.

The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means backtracking and restricting freedom until your rabbit is trained again.

Rabbit Proofing

Rabbits like to chew, and the most important task in rabbit proofing is to make sure there is nothing dangerous within your rabbit's reach. You will also want to protect your belongings from your rabbit.

You will have to decide how much freedom your bunny will have. This might depend on your bunny's age, training, and the level of supervision you can provide. Some bunnies are given access to most of the house, but many owners prefer to limit their rabbit to a single room for out-of-the-cage time. Even if you want to give your bunny full access to your house, you might want start off confining him or her to a single room until bunny is litter trained and you have gotten a handle on chewing and other undesirable behaviors.

Get Down To Your Bunny's Level 

One of the most helpful ways to identify what might attract your rabbit's attention is to get on your hands and knees and look at the house from that perspective. From there you might spot hazards and spaces that you normally wouldn't notice.

Electrical and Phone Cords 

These are seemingly irresistible to many rabbits. Because of the risk of elecrocution to your rabbit and your home's safety, it is imperative that electrical cords are out of reach. It may be possible to arrange the furniture in your room to hide most electrical cords (but don't run them under carpets due to fire risk). Any that cannot be hidden should be covered. Plastic tubing with a slit down one side in available to encase wires, or you can find different diameters of tubing at hardware and pond supply stores (which you can slit with a utility knife). You can also get hard plastic wire channels that attach neatly to the floor or baseboard. For determined rabbits you might even need to go to PVC tubing to protect wires. Have a look at many options for hiding wires at CableOrganizers.com. You can treat phone cords the same way.

Houseplants 

Houseplants should be kept out of reach to prevent rabbits from eating them and/or digging in the soil. Make sure your houseplants are non toxic; even if the plant is out of reach, leaves may fall where your rabbit can eat them. Check this list of poisonous plants from the San Diego Chapter of the House Rabbit Society, and remove any that are of concern.

Chewing 

Rabbits will try to chew anything. As mentioned previously, cords are a favorite target, but rabbits will also chew furniture (expecially wooden legs), baseboards, books, carpet edges, and anything else that appeals to them. Try to block access to any favorite chewing targets. Wooden furniture legs can be wrapped in heavy plastic or tin foil to discourage chewing. Carpets should be securely tacked down, especially in corners and at doorways. If your rabbit starts chewing, you can cover the carpet in trouble areas with plexiglass, plastic carpet protectors meant to go under office chairs, a piece of furniture, or untreated grass mats. Heavy slipcovers or blankets can be used to protect couches and chairs. Make sure books, treasured knick knacks, shoes, and other chewables are kept out of reach. Also make sure your rabbit can't get into your garbage cans or waste baskets.

Digging 
Rabbits also love digging, and may do significant damage to carpets or furniture from this activity. Favorite spots seem to be corners and under closed doors, although your rabbit may try to dig anywhere. Deal with digging behaviors in much the same way as chewing: block off problem areas, cover favorite spots with plexiglass, plastic mats, or untreated grass mats, and make sure carpets are securely tacked down.

Hiding Spots 
Rabbits like to get into tight spaces. They like to hide under furniture and beds, but sometimes they chew and climb up into the underside of these items, so you may need to tack a piece of plywood to the underside of your boxspring mattress or use wood to block access to the underside of furniture. Appliances should be inaccessible, as rabbits can get under or behind them and become injured, stuck, or chew on the wires. Also block any other tight spaces in which your bunny could get stuck, and make sure there are no spaces throught which your rabbit could escape.

*How Can I Train My Rabbit Not to Chew Everything in Sight?

1. Provide Alternatives 

Since your rabbit needs to chew, first you need to provide a good variety of alternatives on which your rabbit can safely chew. Branches from apple or willow trees, safe rabbit toys, untreated willow baskets and toys, untreated grass mats, and cardboard all make good alternatives. Providing multiple items gives your rabbit more choice and if you have different sizes and types of chew toys around, chances are one of them will satisfy your rabbit's craving to chew. Of course, you should also provide your rabbit with a couple of safe chew toys in the cage as well. A variety items to help keep your rabbit occupied can be found in "Rabbit Toys."

2. Rabbit-Proof Your Home 

Good rabbit-proofing takes away much of the temptation and opportunity to get into trouble. Don't give your rabbit free run of your home, at least not at first: pick a limited space and thoroughly rabbit-proof that space to make training easier. Things like electrical wires are very dangerous for your rabbit so you must make sure there is no way your rabbit can get to them in the first place. Furniture and other belongings should also be protected. The less your rabbit can demolish, the less frustrated you will be, and training will be smoother. See "Rabbit-Proofing Your Home" for more strategies.

3. Supervise and Redirect 
Your rabbit doesn't instinctively know that he is not allowed to chew on your furniture and other belongings, so you must teach him. This means when you are starting out with a new rabbit, you must watch your rabbit carefully at playtime. Make sure you start this training as soon as you bring your rabbit home, so no bad habits get started. Whenever your rabbit tries to chew something he/she should not, say "no" firmly (no need to yell) and clap your hands, and then give your rabbit an appropriate chew toy.

4. Have Patience 
Your rabbit will take time to learn, and he or she will probably test you along the way, so be patient but consistent. Never hit your rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going back to your things instead of chewing on her toys, put your bunny in a "time-out" in the cage for a few minutes. Another alternative is to use an exercise pen (collapsible, portable cage for dogs) for at least part of playtime outside of the cage, so you can relax on supervision and training a bit. As your rabbit gets older and settles down, chewing will become less of an issue, but consistency and patience right from the beginning is your biggest training advantage.

5. Spay and Neuter 
Spaying or neutering rabbits helps make them less prone to destructive behavior, including chewing.

Note: about Bitter Apple Spray and other Deterrents: 
You can try using a bitter apple spray (available at pet stores) on items your rabbit likes to chew. Many rabbits don't mind the taste, though (and some even seem to like it), so while this may be worth a try, is often not effective. If it does work with your rabbit, the spray must be re-applied frequently.

6. Rabbit Health

You should try to find a knowledgeable rabbit vet, to spay or neuter your rabbit and to call on if your rabbit develops health problems. In some parts of the world, rabbits are vaccinated as well, so find a vet and check with them about a preventative health plan for your rabbit.

 Rabbits are generally pretty hardy, but these are some common questions about health related concerns in pet rabbits:

How do I Find a Good Rabbit Vet? - finding a veterinarian experienced with rabbits can be difficult but is well worth the trouble. It is a good idea to have a veterinarian you are comfortable well before you need one so you are not left scrambling in case of emergency.

Should I Spay or Neuter My Rabbit? - in short the answer is yes, but this answer includes several reasons why it is a good idea and why you need to find the right vet to do the surgery.

At What Age should I Spay or Neuter? - your vet will have recommendations that suit your bunny personally but here are general guidelines.

Isn't Surgery Risky for Rabbits? - you may have heard that surgery is dangerous in rabbits and the answer to this question is is related to question number 1.

How do I Prevent Hairballs? - the answer is more complicated than just grooming.

Is my Rabbit Supposed to Eating His or Her Feces? - a common question, because it sometimes shocks new bunny owners if they see this!